Clear containers are good for storing things and seeing immediately what is in
them. These chocolate boxes always seemed a shame to throw away. Here is an easy
way to remove the labels
Tools needed:
Packing Tape
Vegetable Oil
Soap and Water
Removing the Logo under the Cover:
Flip the cover over to access the logo underneath the cover.
Cut a length of packing tape to cover as much of the logo as possible. Leave enough on the sides so you can pull easily.
Press the tape unto the logo firmly.
Peel the tape off the cover, the logo should come off with it.
Repeat until clean.
Removing the Sticker on Bottom Right:
Use fingernails or a spoon to lift the edges of the sticker label.
Get some vegetable oil (unused) and smother the label.
Be generous around the edges so the oil can seep into the adhesive layer.
Let sit for about an hour.
Gently peel from one end of the sticker.
Wash with soap (the blue Dawn is best) to remove oil and leftover adhesive.
The gimbal is based on the WSCATLER Design #4. It has a Traxxas 5151 as its base and two skateboard bearings. Instead of a flashlight I am using Sch 40 PVC fittings. The base is attached to a Manfrotto 357 for demonstration.
The shaft end is M5-.8 according to the metric guide at Home Depot.
And skateboard bearing barely fits in a 3/4" PVC pipe. It needs shaving to fit but it will.
A Maglite Mini head is the exact diameter of the skateboard bearing on the outside. Forturnately there is no way to shave the inner cavity to make it fit. Use PVC or find another flashlight to use. The brinkmans are too large and the electronics are not easy to get out.
This is the ninth in the series of instructions on how to build the YSM35B Vibrating 35mm DOF Adapter. In the last part we reviewed the differences between the YSM35A and YSM35B. Now we attach the motor and power connector to the adapter itself.
Wear safety glasses when operating the drill. Disassemble the static adapter from Ring #3 out. Leave Ring #2 attached to the F-mount. The motor mount area should be bottom. Note the alignment of the focus screen mount so the motor will become a fourth leg.
Take ring #2 on the adapter and mark out where you need to put the phono plug. It should be on the bottom and between the front and rear threads. Examine the ring inside and out before you drill.
Make a pilot hole with a 1/8" drill bit to start. This will take a few minutes of drilling. Rest your drill every so often. Then check to make sure your distances are alright. You shouldn't eat into the rear thread where ring #3 attaches or the front thread where the Nikon F-mount attaches.
Enlarge the hole with a 1/4" drill bit. This will be much quicker. Clean your work area of the aluminum dust.
Heat up your solder gun now. Meanwhile find your other phono plug. Remove the washer and middle/center conductor. Leave the spacer. Slot that onto the hole you made into ring #2. Attach the conductor to the threads on the phono plug from inside ring #2. Follow with the washer to fasten both together. The connector tab for the conductor should be facing inward.
Tin the back/center pole and the middle/outer conductor. Solder the red wire from the vibrating motor to the back/center pole. The blue wire goes to the middle/outer conductor. This should result in center of phono plug being positive and outer being negative. This matches the control box.
You can now re-assemble the vibrating mount, ring #2 and nikon F-mount together. To get the vibrating mount in you may have to insert it at a slant. Screw it all together via the found mount rather than rotating ring #2.
Re-align the right side stilt(leg) to the F-mount locking pin. Then remove the adhesive backing from the motor and press it on to the top focus screen mount.
During this endeavor the focus screen mount was probably displaced. Adjust the distance of the focus screen. Later we will glue the stilts so the distance is permanent. For now, just get it in the approximate distance. You might have to bend or loop the solid core wire so it doesn't bend the other legs. The adapter now has four legs.
Clean the focus screen. Hopefully you didn't touch it at all during this process. Attach the control box and test.
What's Next? We finalize the vibrating adapter. We need to readjust for correct infinity focus. Once we are confident, we glue it to be permanent.
