The first clue was my thumbnails were green with a band of static on it. I've always used the MPC included in CCCP which didn't have problems playing back the video clips. Portable VLC has its own decoders so it never has a problem. Windows Media player didn't work despite having a copy of Morgan installed. What I had to do was enable MJPEG in FDDShow for VfW. Vegas and Windows Media Player needed a VfW drive.
Start -> Programs -> Combined Community Code Pack -> Filters -> FFDShow VFW Codec Configuration
Decoder -> Codecs -> MJPEG -> libavcodec (from disabled) -> Apply
Decoder -> Codecs -> Other MJPEG -> libavcodec (from disabled) -> Apply
Reboot your PC.
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Monday, February 23, 2009
Realtek, Audacity, and Windows Vista
For the past few years I've been capturing my audio via HDV. Strange huh? I thought that my cheap microphones were the ones the sucked. I had an Audiotechica ATR-25, ATR-35 and Azden SMX-10. But they worked fine when monitoring the audio levels on my HV20/30's display. The microphone in on my editing computer always came in barely audible for voiceovers. That was until I discovered the culprit: Audio Enhancements.
Do yourself a favor and turn off the extra effects on your Microphone.
Start -> Control Panel -> Sound -> Recording -> Microphone -> Properties -> Enhancements -> Disable all sound effects
If you're using Audacity you're better off applying the adjustments yourself. The default setting has DC Offset Cancellation which mutes the microphone if it determines it is "too loud." It wasn't doing a very good job. Noise Suppression and Acoustic Echo Cancellation were kind of dodgy. Like when you over apply noise cancellation in Audacity it starts to sound like a tin can.
With everything off, life is better.
Do yourself a favor and turn off the extra effects on your Microphone.
Start -> Control Panel -> Sound -> Recording -> Microphone -> Properties -> Enhancements -> Disable all sound effects
If you're using Audacity you're better off applying the adjustments yourself. The default setting has DC Offset Cancellation which mutes the microphone if it determines it is "too loud." It wasn't doing a very good job. Noise Suppression and Acoustic Echo Cancellation were kind of dodgy. Like when you over apply noise cancellation in Audacity it starts to sound like a tin can.
With everything off, life is better.
Saturday, November 29, 2008
YSM35B Finalize the Adapter
This is the tenth in the series of instructions on how to build the YSM35B Vibrating 35mm DOF Adapter. In the last part we attached the motor to the adapter. Now we finalize the vibrating adapter.
Finalize the Adapter
Tools you will need for this portion:
Glue gun
Metal ruler
Remove ring #3 and adjust the focus screen distance. Do the same adjustment for infinity focus as you did earlier in the series. Once you have the distance right, glue the top focus screen mount to the stilts. Tap the glue gun to the edge of the stilts and let it drip down to the mount. Pull the glue gun away carefully to not drop any on the focus screen. Do all three stilts. Then glue the motor as well. Allow to cool. Then close everything up!
The above video has an extra section explaining one battery versus two.
Premiliminary Demo
Above is a demo using the 1 battery setup. You can see some oscillation in the image. Unlike the YSM35A this model is running too slow. I've changed back to the original 2 battery design.
That's it!
I hope you had fun during this build. Watch for future updates. Now go out there and make movies. Good luck!
Finalize the Adapter
Tools you will need for this portion:
Glue gun
Metal ruler
Remove ring #3 and adjust the focus screen distance. Do the same adjustment for infinity focus as you did earlier in the series. Once you have the distance right, glue the top focus screen mount to the stilts. Tap the glue gun to the edge of the stilts and let it drip down to the mount. Pull the glue gun away carefully to not drop any on the focus screen. Do all three stilts. Then glue the motor as well. Allow to cool. Then close everything up!
The above video has an extra section explaining one battery versus two.
Premiliminary Demo
Above is a demo using the 1 battery setup. You can see some oscillation in the image. Unlike the YSM35A this model is running too slow. I've changed back to the original 2 battery design.
That's it!
I hope you had fun during this build. Watch for future updates. Now go out there and make movies. Good luck!
YSM35B Attaching Motor to Adapter
This is the ninth in the series of instructions on how to build the YSM35B Vibrating 35mm DOF Adapter. In the last part we reviewed the differences between the YSM35A and YSM35B. Now we attach the motor and power connector to the adapter itself.
Attaching Motor to Adapter
Parts and Tools needs for this portion:
Phono plug (RS 274-0852)
Soldering iron/gun
Silver bearing Solder (RS 64-025)
Drill
Eye protection
Wear safety glasses when operating the drill. Disassemble the static adapter from Ring #3 out. Leave Ring #2 attached to the F-mount. The motor mount area should be bottom. Note the alignment of the focus screen mount so the motor will become a fourth leg.
Take ring #2 on the adapter and mark out where you need to put the phono plug. It should be on the bottom and between the front and rear threads. Examine the ring inside and out before you drill.
Make a pilot hole with a 1/8" drill bit to start. This will take a few minutes of drilling. Rest your drill every so often. Then check to make sure your distances are alright. You shouldn't eat into the rear thread where ring #3 attaches or the front thread where the Nikon F-mount attaches.
Enlarge the hole with a 1/4" drill bit. This will be much quicker. Clean your work area of the aluminum dust.
Heat up your solder gun now. Meanwhile find your other phono plug. Remove the washer and middle/center conductor. Leave the spacer. Slot that onto the hole you made into ring #2. Attach the conductor to the threads on the phono plug from inside ring #2. Follow with the washer to fasten both together. The connector tab for the conductor should be facing inward.
Tin the back/center pole and the middle/outer conductor. Solder the red wire from the vibrating motor to the back/center pole. The blue wire goes to the middle/outer conductor. This should result in center of phono plug being positive and outer being negative. This matches the control box.
You can now re-assemble the vibrating mount, ring #2 and nikon F-mount together. To get the vibrating mount in you may have to insert it at a slant. Screw it all together via the found mount rather than rotating ring #2.
Re-align the right side stilt(leg) to the F-mount locking pin. Then remove the adhesive backing from the motor and press it on to the top focus screen mount.
During this endeavor the focus screen mount was probably displaced. Adjust the distance of the focus screen. Later we will glue the stilts so the distance is permanent. For now, just get it in the approximate distance. You might have to bend or loop the solid core wire so it doesn't bend the other legs. The adapter now has four legs.
Clean the focus screen. Hopefully you didn't touch it at all during this process. Attach the control box and test.
What's Next?
We finalize the vibrating adapter. We need to readjust for correct infinity focus. Once we are confident, we glue it to be permanent.
Attaching Motor to Adapter
Parts and Tools needs for this portion:
Phono plug (RS 274-0852)
Soldering iron/gun
Silver bearing Solder (RS 64-025)
Drill
Eye protection
Wear safety glasses when operating the drill. Disassemble the static adapter from Ring #3 out. Leave Ring #2 attached to the F-mount. The motor mount area should be bottom. Note the alignment of the focus screen mount so the motor will become a fourth leg.
Take ring #2 on the adapter and mark out where you need to put the phono plug. It should be on the bottom and between the front and rear threads. Examine the ring inside and out before you drill.
Make a pilot hole with a 1/8" drill bit to start. This will take a few minutes of drilling. Rest your drill every so often. Then check to make sure your distances are alright. You shouldn't eat into the rear thread where ring #3 attaches or the front thread where the Nikon F-mount attaches.
Enlarge the hole with a 1/4" drill bit. This will be much quicker. Clean your work area of the aluminum dust.
Heat up your solder gun now. Meanwhile find your other phono plug. Remove the washer and middle/center conductor. Leave the spacer. Slot that onto the hole you made into ring #2. Attach the conductor to the threads on the phono plug from inside ring #2. Follow with the washer to fasten both together. The connector tab for the conductor should be facing inward.
Tin the back/center pole and the middle/outer conductor. Solder the red wire from the vibrating motor to the back/center pole. The blue wire goes to the middle/outer conductor. This should result in center of phono plug being positive and outer being negative. This matches the control box.
You can now re-assemble the vibrating mount, ring #2 and nikon F-mount together. To get the vibrating mount in you may have to insert it at a slant. Screw it all together via the found mount rather than rotating ring #2.
Re-align the right side stilt(leg) to the F-mount locking pin. Then remove the adhesive backing from the motor and press it on to the top focus screen mount.
During this endeavor the focus screen mount was probably displaced. Adjust the distance of the focus screen. Later we will glue the stilts so the distance is permanent. For now, just get it in the approximate distance. You might have to bend or loop the solid core wire so it doesn't bend the other legs. The adapter now has four legs.
Clean the focus screen. Hopefully you didn't touch it at all during this process. Attach the control box and test.
What's Next?
We finalize the vibrating adapter. We need to readjust for correct infinity focus. Once we are confident, we glue it to be permanent.
YSM35B Difference in Design to YSM35A
This is the eight in the series of instructions on how to build the YSM35B Vibrating 35mm DOF Adapter. In the last part made the control box. Now we re-examine the difference between this version and the original.
Click on the picture to see the Flickr Notes
The original YSM35A used a Rheostat and Power switch. I couldn't find a Rheostat this time around so I subsituted with a Mini Volume Control. Rheostats and Volume Controls are found in the Potentiometer area of hobby electronics (e.g. Radioshack).
The difference is Rheostats are made for higher voltages and doesn't turn off. That is why the power switch (SPDT Mini-Toggle) is needed. A volume control switch is a potentiometer with a built-in SPDT switch. We will be using a tiny motor so it should be fine to put 1.2 to 3 volts through it without burning it out. The dial won't have the precision of a rheostat but it will do.
Another difference with the A model is the use of only one battery. This reduction from 2.4 - 3v (NIMH/Alkaline) to 1.2 to 1.5 volts (NIMH/Alkaline) is an experiment. With the soldering skill you develop it won't be too hard to change battery holders later.
What's Next?
We attach the motor and install a power plug on the adapter itself.
Click on the picture to see the Flickr NotesThe original YSM35A used a Rheostat and Power switch. I couldn't find a Rheostat this time around so I subsituted with a Mini Volume Control. Rheostats and Volume Controls are found in the Potentiometer area of hobby electronics (e.g. Radioshack).
The difference is Rheostats are made for higher voltages and doesn't turn off. That is why the power switch (SPDT Mini-Toggle) is needed. A volume control switch is a potentiometer with a built-in SPDT switch. We will be using a tiny motor so it should be fine to put 1.2 to 3 volts through it without burning it out. The dial won't have the precision of a rheostat but it will do.
Another difference with the A model is the use of only one battery. This reduction from 2.4 - 3v (NIMH/Alkaline) to 1.2 to 1.5 volts (NIMH/Alkaline) is an experiment. With the soldering skill you develop it won't be too hard to change battery holders later.
What's Next?
We attach the motor and install a power plug on the adapter itself.
YSM35B Assemble the Control Box
This is the seventh in the series of instructions on how to build the YSM35B Vibrating 35mm DOF Adapter. In the last part we extended the wiring for the pancake motor. We now assemble a control box.
Test Wiring
This part is temporary to see if the switches and wires are good. It also has a short note on filling the connector holes with solder. If you're feeling confident you can skip this part.
Control Box Assembly
The parts and tools you will need for this portion:
Phono Plugs (RS 274-0852)
Rheostat + Power Switch or Mini Volume Control (RS 271-0215)
Project Enclosure (RS 270-1801)
AA Battery Holder (1x - RS 270-401A or 2x RS 270-382A + Snap Connector)
AA Batteries
Soldering Iron/Gun
Silver Bearing Solder (RS 64-025)
Drill with 1/8" and 1/4" bits
RCA cable
Eye Protection
Take the Mini Volume Control switch and look at the connector poles. There should be a marking 1,2,3 or just 3 on it. Solder the red wire of your battery holder to the outer pole #3. Take a splice of wire (red) and solder that to the back pole of the phono plug.
Remember to wear safety glasses when operating the drill. Little burrs tend to fly!
Take both and do a test fit in the project box. Mark the locations and start drilling. Both of the parts I used fit through a 1/4" hole. Drill a holes, using a smaller pilot first, at low speed then gradually speed up. Once you punch the holes in, pull the drill bit out partially and run it in reverse to clean it out. You can usually remove any burrs by hand. Once clean you can do another test fit. Rheostats and Volume Switches have a tab on one side to keep it from rotating. Tap another smaller hole for it with a 1/8" bit. If there are obstructions you can use a sanding bit or cutter to clean them out.
Take your phono plug and solder a red wire to the pole on the back. This pole connect to the middle part of the phono connector. We will use this for the positive wire. Remove the washer, middle conductor and spacer from the phono plug. We are probably discarding the spacer. Slip the phono plug with its positive wire into the project box. Then slip the middle/outer conductor and washer on. The middle/outer conductor will be used for negative and transmits power though the outer metal of the phono plug. Tighten the washer.
Tin the black wire on the battery holder as well as the middle/outer conductor. Solder the black wire together to the middle conductor.
Now attach the volume control switch to the project box. Put the spacer on the front and tighten with the washer. With the connector poles pointing up make sure the red wire on pole #3 is out of the way. Tin the middle pole #2. Tin the red wire from the phono plug as well. Then hold the solder iron to the middle pole to keep it liquid. Poke the end of the phono's red wire through the pole. Remove the soldering iron.
Inspect your connections to verify that red and black aren't wires aren't directly touching. This would cause a short.
At this point you now have a working control box. You can plug a battery in and turn on the Volume Control switch to maximum (clockwise). Take the vibrating motor and touch the 'blue/black' wire to the outer metal part of the phono plug. Then touch the red wire to the middle metal part of the same plug. The motor should vibrate.
What's Next?
Review the final control box and differences in design to the original.
Test Wiring
This part is temporary to see if the switches and wires are good. It also has a short note on filling the connector holes with solder. If you're feeling confident you can skip this part.
Control Box Assembly
The parts and tools you will need for this portion:
Phono Plugs (RS 274-0852)
Rheostat + Power Switch or Mini Volume Control (RS 271-0215)
Project Enclosure (RS 270-1801)
AA Battery Holder (1x - RS 270-401A or 2x RS 270-382A + Snap Connector)
AA Batteries
Soldering Iron/Gun
Silver Bearing Solder (RS 64-025)
Drill with 1/8" and 1/4" bits
RCA cable
Eye Protection
Take the Mini Volume Control switch and look at the connector poles. There should be a marking 1,2,3 or just 3 on it. Solder the red wire of your battery holder to the outer pole #3. Take a splice of wire (red) and solder that to the back pole of the phono plug.
Remember to wear safety glasses when operating the drill. Little burrs tend to fly!
Take both and do a test fit in the project box. Mark the locations and start drilling. Both of the parts I used fit through a 1/4" hole. Drill a holes, using a smaller pilot first, at low speed then gradually speed up. Once you punch the holes in, pull the drill bit out partially and run it in reverse to clean it out. You can usually remove any burrs by hand. Once clean you can do another test fit. Rheostats and Volume Switches have a tab on one side to keep it from rotating. Tap another smaller hole for it with a 1/8" bit. If there are obstructions you can use a sanding bit or cutter to clean them out.
Take your phono plug and solder a red wire to the pole on the back. This pole connect to the middle part of the phono connector. We will use this for the positive wire. Remove the washer, middle conductor and spacer from the phono plug. We are probably discarding the spacer. Slip the phono plug with its positive wire into the project box. Then slip the middle/outer conductor and washer on. The middle/outer conductor will be used for negative and transmits power though the outer metal of the phono plug. Tighten the washer.
Tin the black wire on the battery holder as well as the middle/outer conductor. Solder the black wire together to the middle conductor.
Now attach the volume control switch to the project box. Put the spacer on the front and tighten with the washer. With the connector poles pointing up make sure the red wire on pole #3 is out of the way. Tin the middle pole #2. Tin the red wire from the phono plug as well. Then hold the solder iron to the middle pole to keep it liquid. Poke the end of the phono's red wire through the pole. Remove the soldering iron.
Inspect your connections to verify that red and black aren't wires aren't directly touching. This would cause a short.
At this point you now have a working control box. You can plug a battery in and turn on the Volume Control switch to maximum (clockwise). Take the vibrating motor and touch the 'blue/black' wire to the outer metal part of the phono plug. Then touch the red wire to the middle metal part of the same plug. The motor should vibrate.
What's Next?
Review the final control box and differences in design to the original.
Sunday, November 23, 2008
YSM35B Extending the Pancake Motor Wires
This is the sixth in the series of instructions on how to build the YSM35B Vibrating 35mm DOF Adapter. In the last part we adjusted the distance of the ground glass to achieve sharp infinity focus. A test of the static mode showed the grain and dust that could stick to the ground glass. We now begin to assemble the electronics.
Extending the Pancake Motor Wiring
The parts and tools you will need for this portion are:
Scrap CAT5E cable or some solid core wire
Vibrating Motor (Coin/Pancake-style)
Soldering Iron/Gun
Solder Wire
Battery
Glue gun with glue sticks
I have no training in electronics. But I asked some people who did and picked up how to use a soldering gun. If this is your first time you might want to practice on some scrap wire first.
Stripping the insulation
We want to extend the wiring of the pancake motor so I picked some solid core from a splice of CAT5E cable. You can use telephone wire but this tends to be thin. Solid core is rigid and easier to strip without destroying it.
My technique is to use a nail clipper. Apply light pressure to pinch the insulation then twist the wire around. It doesn't have to go all the way through. Pull on the insulation and it is now stripped. Do not worry too much if you take out too much. Just make sure you have enough to contact with the wires on the pancake. Do this to the other end of the wire as well. Prepare two.
How to Solder
The basic soldering iron is a device that will produce heat. It should be enough to melt the solder wire. At the right temperature the wire changes from a solid to a liquid. Once that heat is removed it cools quickly and turns back into a solid.
To prepare the soldering iron make sure the tip is clean. I like to use sandpaper to scrape off excess carbon from previous uses. Plug in to the wall socket and allow to heat for a few minutes. Be careful not to touch anything but the handle. Once heated it is easiest to touch the solder to the tip and allow it to bead. Rest the solder gun on something solid and non-flammable.
Two wires will stick easily if they are tinned. Tinning is applying a coat of solder on a wire. This way just touching the two wires together with the iron on one side would join them.
You will need both hands to the final join. With the iron rest at an angle, touch both wires together onto the heated tip. When you see the solder bead or melt pull both wires away. The solder should quickly cool. When hot the solder looks silver. Cold its a dull grey.
If you take too long you might melt some insulation. And you might notice heat along the wires. This is okay for the most part.
Insulating the Solder
Its possible to short the motor if the two exposed solder joins come into contact. To prevent this we could use various types of insulation from electrical tape, to heat shrink tubing and hot glue. In the YSM35A I found that electrical tape tends to lose adhesion over time. Heat shrink is hard to shrink significantly enough. So this time around I tried hot glue. It is non conductive and malleable.
So I apply a coating of hot glue around the two solder joins. Then I glue both together. The two joins are separated by the layer of glue.
Testing your wiring
Now its time to see if it works. Take a AA battery and touch the "red" wire to positive and "blue/black" wire to negative. The vibrating motor will work in either way but this is the convention.
What's next?
Next we'll create a control box with a battery holder, speed control, and power switch.
Extending the Pancake Motor Wiring
The parts and tools you will need for this portion are:
Scrap CAT5E cable or some solid core wire
Vibrating Motor (Coin/Pancake-style)
Soldering Iron/Gun
Solder Wire
Battery
Glue gun with glue sticks
I have no training in electronics. But I asked some people who did and picked up how to use a soldering gun. If this is your first time you might want to practice on some scrap wire first.
Stripping the insulation
We want to extend the wiring of the pancake motor so I picked some solid core from a splice of CAT5E cable. You can use telephone wire but this tends to be thin. Solid core is rigid and easier to strip without destroying it.
My technique is to use a nail clipper. Apply light pressure to pinch the insulation then twist the wire around. It doesn't have to go all the way through. Pull on the insulation and it is now stripped. Do not worry too much if you take out too much. Just make sure you have enough to contact with the wires on the pancake. Do this to the other end of the wire as well. Prepare two.
How to Solder
The basic soldering iron is a device that will produce heat. It should be enough to melt the solder wire. At the right temperature the wire changes from a solid to a liquid. Once that heat is removed it cools quickly and turns back into a solid.
To prepare the soldering iron make sure the tip is clean. I like to use sandpaper to scrape off excess carbon from previous uses. Plug in to the wall socket and allow to heat for a few minutes. Be careful not to touch anything but the handle. Once heated it is easiest to touch the solder to the tip and allow it to bead. Rest the solder gun on something solid and non-flammable.
Two wires will stick easily if they are tinned. Tinning is applying a coat of solder on a wire. This way just touching the two wires together with the iron on one side would join them.
You will need both hands to the final join. With the iron rest at an angle, touch both wires together onto the heated tip. When you see the solder bead or melt pull both wires away. The solder should quickly cool. When hot the solder looks silver. Cold its a dull grey.
If you take too long you might melt some insulation. And you might notice heat along the wires. This is okay for the most part.
Insulating the Solder
Its possible to short the motor if the two exposed solder joins come into contact. To prevent this we could use various types of insulation from electrical tape, to heat shrink tubing and hot glue. In the YSM35A I found that electrical tape tends to lose adhesion over time. Heat shrink is hard to shrink significantly enough. So this time around I tried hot glue. It is non conductive and malleable.
So I apply a coating of hot glue around the two solder joins. Then I glue both together. The two joins are separated by the layer of glue.
Testing your wiring
Now its time to see if it works. Take a AA battery and touch the "red" wire to positive and "blue/black" wire to negative. The vibrating motor will work in either way but this is the convention.
What's next?
Next we'll create a control box with a battery holder, speed control, and power switch.
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