tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16445563266414117022024-02-19T10:44:26.978-05:00Primitive But EffectiveSo it's not sparkling and polished. But it works doesn't it?Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger98125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-30000965558749588112023-12-09T02:36:00.001-05:002023-12-09T02:36:44.790-05:00Finding Replacement DS412+ Power AdapterMy DS412+ is now a decade old. Moved it from a 110v environment to 220v in another location. Noticed that after a year the original power supply gave out (mid-2021). Replaced with a random power supply that answered to DS412 but it had 7a. A year later in late 2022, that one gave out too. Replaced it with a 9a model, surely this would be good. UPS with a voltage regulator in front of it meant that surge should not have been a factor. That unit lasted about 6 months which was around mid 2023. So ordered one of the better rated models from Amazon US hoping to get a better built unit. Wish me luck.<br><br>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-2935555021517296082023-11-18T00:03:00.001-05:002023-11-18T00:03:25.646-05:00PiKVM v3 Fan Replacement NotesThe fan on my PiKVM v3 started getting noisy so decided to buy a 4 pack of 5v 30x30x5 mm fans to replace it. You need to remove the screws from the top, then unplug the fans. The black wire is toward the "front" of the case where the display would be. Also the fan label faces outward as an exhaust configuration. Make sure to hold down the nuts to unscrew the fan. Tighten it well after replacement too. Found that the screws were loose on the original fan, not sure if it just vibrated out that way.<br><br>
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</center>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-36117650180657833932023-11-13T07:01:00.000-05:002023-11-13T07:01:50.767-05:00Windows 11 Update Explorer.com crash due to Explorer PatcherWhile patching Windows 11 from 21H2 to 22H2 the first boot would result in Explorer.exe crashing continually and restarting. This makes it difficult to control the computer. If you are lucky you can trigger Task Manager via CTRL-ALT-DEL to kill explorer. Run menu in Task Manager will allow you to run individual programs but do not minimize otherwise you might not be able to reopen. If unable to get to Task Manager, power down three times to trigger the boot up failure menu. Revert the quality update in this menu.
<br><br>
Now you have two options:
<br>
1) Patch Explorer Patcher to the latest version available in GitHub: <a href="https://github.com/valinet/ExplorerPatcher/releases">https://github.com/valinet/ExplorerPatcher/releases</a>
<br>
2) Temporarily Uninstall Explorer Patcher then reinstall after Quality Update is complete.
<br><br>
There is no Auto Update for Explorer Patcher so you have to remember to do this periodically or before each quality update.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-84614228522070697902023-10-28T11:24:00.002-04:002023-10-28T21:58:56.709-04:00YuanLey 4 x 2.5g 2 x 10g SFP Switch Power Consumption NotesWith just the 2.5Gbps ports populated each switch uses this much power:<br>
<br>
2.5 Watts Idle<br>
3.2 Watts 2 Ports active<br>
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Have not had the chance to try the SFP ports yet.
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Extra Notes: 2.5Gpbs is amber light, 1Gpbs is green light, in the past amber was 100MbpsUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-16462622185371325412021-01-02T10:23:00.000-05:002021-01-02T10:23:03.401-05:00Comparison of Ergotron HX Heavy Duty Tilt Head vs OriginalThe Ergotron HX is unable to take the weight of a Samsung G9 while maintaining tilt functionality due to the severe shape and difference in Center of Gravity. Previous to the new Heavy Duty Tilt Head (Part: 98-540-216) users have resorted to <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ultrawidemasterrace/comments/hqv5ew/odyssey_g9_w_ergotron_hx_wall_mount/">ties</a>, jamming <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ultrawidemasterrace/comments/hp9orw/odyssey_g9_working_with_erogtron_hx_temporary_fix/">screws</a> and retrofited base stand <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/ultrawidemasterrace/comments/hwdog3/to_all_g9_owners_struggling_to_find_a_good/g4k3irn/?context=3">head</a> to affix their monitors.
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The new Heavy Duty head can be identified by the more prominent side bolts and screws on the top of the head. It may be a manufacturing variance but this new head also appears generously lubricated and an off-grey color compared to the original.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-83043592234582113812021-01-02T09:45:00.003-05:002021-01-02T09:47:45.825-05:00Tips for Updating Samsung Odyssey G9 FirmwareThe exe file that comes from Samsung is compressed with ALZip, which is available from the <a href="https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/alzip/9wzdncrdct3q">Windows Store</a>. You can open the file for self-extraction or use that application to decompress the IMG file within. Copy the file to the root directory of a FAT32 (surprisingly NTFS also worked for me) USB stick.
Unplug the USB Type B plug from the rear of the monitor if it is attached. Then attach the USB stick to the outermost port on the rear. If you plug into the innermost port it will not update.
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Go to the front of the monitor and use the OSD stick to go the the Menu. Choose Support -> Software Update. If you followed the steps correctly the stick will start flashing as it is read. If it does not read it may be you forgot to unplug the USB Type B which causes the monitor to become a hub, stick may be in the wrong USB port, or file is not in root directory.
Update should take less than 5 minutes. A progress bar is displayed.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-15021358292507893232020-11-21T07:20:00.004-05:002020-11-21T07:29:12.718-05:00Stripping screws on Omen 15 LaptopUse a Philips Head #000 (PH000) screw driver to remove the screws. I made the mistake of using #0 and #00, using a common precision screw driver set from Walmart, which stripped it for the tougher front screws. HP uses thread locking glue so it is hit or miss for successful extraction without the proper screwdriver head. If the screw does not come out easily, stop! If this message is too late as you have already stripped it, screwdriver just spins freely and you can see silver, use a Microbit Screw Extractor (the smallest one in the set) with a power drill. Install the bit, set the drill on reverse, set the lowest speed or infinite with a slow press. Pressing down firmly on the screw head start with the side having the big teeth. If it bites the screw will extract. In my case I did not even have to use the other side with more threads. As for replacement screws, there are laptop screw sets you can buy from Amazon and such. For the 2018-2020 Omen 15 the outer case screws are M2x6.0.<br><br>
Links:<br>
<a href="https://amzn.to/331zSMn">(PAID link) Microbit Screw Extractor (Amazon)</a><br>
<a href="https://amzn.to/3pQr7hZ">(PAID link) Assorted Laptop Screws (Amazon)</a><br>
<a href="https://amzn.to/392cySL">(PAID link) Screwdriver set containing PH000 (Amazon)</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-59507818576386944852020-11-14T17:28:00.002-05:002020-11-14T17:32:16.173-05:00Why Is my Mic not recorded on OBS Stream?So I checked all the usual suspects: Mic audio levels were moving, unchecked exclusive mode on microphone, made sure microphone was not muted in Windows or OBS, verified desktop audio could be heard on the stream. But somehow OBS was not sending my Mic/Aux to either the Stream or Recording. Discord had no issue picking up my voice so it had to be something in OBS. Clicked on Advanced Properties on the Mic/Aux under Audio Mixer. I see that track 1 was assigned to Desktop Audio while track 2 was set for the Mic/Aux. So I clicked Track 1 on the Mic/Aux as well, magically the recording now has sound. I notice that the track selector on Stream is a radio button, only one can be active.
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UPDATE: Found a similar issue in the <a href="https://obsproject.com/forum/threads/solved-videos-only-record-audio-from-track-1-despite-having-separate-audio-tracks-enabled.112082/" target="_blank">OBS Forum</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-52307250408616447622020-08-01T14:12:00.003-04:002023-11-18T00:25:56.299-05:00Easiest Way of Removing Ferrero Rocher Labels from Jewel BoxesClear containers are good for storing things and seeing immediately what is in
them. These chocolate boxes always seemed a shame to throw away. Here is an easy
way to remove the labels<div><br /></div><div>Tools needed:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Packing Tape</li><li>Vegetable Oil</li><li>Soap and Water</li></ul><div><br /></div></div><div>Removing the Logo under the Cover:</div><div><br /></div><div><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Flip the cover over to access the logo underneath the cover.</li><li>Cut a length of packing tape to cover as much of the logo as possible. Leave enough on the sides so you can pull easily.</li><li>Press the tape unto the logo firmly.</li><li>Peel the tape off the cover, the logo should come off with it.</li><li>Repeat until clean.</li></ol><div><br /></div></div><div>Removing the Sticker on Bottom Right:</div><div><br /></div><div><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Use fingernails or a spoon to lift the edges of the sticker label.</li><li>Get some vegetable oil (unused) and smother the label.</li><li>Be generous around the edges so the oil can seep into the adhesive layer.</li><li>Let sit for about an hour.</li><li>Gently peel from one end of the sticker.</li><li>Wash with soap (the blue Dawn is best) to remove oil and leftover adhesive.</li><li>Let dry.</li></ol><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UzZ_FvodQw0" width="320" youtube-src-id="UzZ_FvodQw0"></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-91091809743164998822018-07-21T23:07:00.003-04:002018-07-21T23:15:04.631-04:00First time user of Insta360 ONE with Android and PCMy primary phone is Android and I edit with a PC. Insta360 ONE was initially made with IPhone in mind. So a few gotchas cropped up on first use.<br />
<br />
1. The camera has a partial charge. It also comes with an 8GB microSD card (You need a "3" card .. 30MB/s minimum). Take this opportunity to go to the <a href="https://www.insta360.com/download/insta360-one">download site</a> and pickup the latest Firmware and Insta360 Studio for PC/Mac. The android apk is available from this same site. Though it is also available via Google Play.<br />
<br />
2. The Insta360 ONE app for Android is needed to connect to it via Bluetooth. You can't pair it directly yourself. 0000 and 1234 are not valid PIN. You must use the app to connect. To access the camera first you have to select the Camera icon on the lower right side of the app. You select blueooth and pick out the Insta360 ONE in the next screen. Once connected it will ask if you want to switch to Android mode (apparently you have to switch it back and forth between Android or IOS control). Do it. You will be rewarded with an obtuse screen showing how to connect with an adapter directly to the phone.<br />
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<br />
I didn't have that adapter, I had to connect to via the bluetooth icon again. Then you get a screen where you can remote control the device. You won't be able to preview anything via Bluetooth apparently.<br />
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3. First time opening the SD Card on the PC showed a DCIM\Camera folder. No JPG or MP4 here. Instead we have INSP (Photo) and INSV (Video) files. Since these extensions are not standard you will have to back it up manually. Insta360 Studio is necessary to make these files usable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizv8p4EAuJzZewyzaoxb8fawV5-tbId2lay5rq52bvgDvYPYAYHMTMD_TszE0cSyPTEHW1alZK5r6ZTmpFAJA2fnTcWOLXe731ALjrvpaX2mrpOgLqRrIv1uolO682eHQJ5bGEchusiA/s1600/FileNames.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizv8p4EAuJzZewyzaoxb8fawV5-tbId2lay5rq52bvgDvYPYAYHMTMD_TszE0cSyPTEHW1alZK5r6ZTmpFAJA2fnTcWOLXe731ALjrvpaX2mrpOgLqRrIv1uolO682eHQJ5bGEchusiA/s320/FileNames.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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4. Installing the Insta360 Studio had some oddness to it. There was a pop-up to install two drivers with Chinese names on it. Couldn't read it, but it didn't really give me a choice to I blindly clicked ok. Next odd thing was Microsoft C++ 2013 Redistributable would be stuck there waiting for prompt if you already had it installed from another product. I chose the repair function and it required a reboot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXB-nRzdxuqow7FtP7fiOQhAKhMSPhsb1DXWz4WqrN-7fvYUM5HOWtPRXQtcXWiQLILdL8jSvesppQwXnynF7aYacoVNkOdq6gL3-IaIp69TY0f8xUdBAM9TI7Lw4iRfjp13fYsZLFTA/s1600/Insta360Studio.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXB-nRzdxuqow7FtP7fiOQhAKhMSPhsb1DXWz4WqrN-7fvYUM5HOWtPRXQtcXWiQLILdL8jSvesppQwXnynF7aYacoVNkOdq6gL3-IaIp69TY0f8xUdBAM9TI7Lw4iRfjp13fYsZLFTA/s320/Insta360Studio.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbnBEA0gtCEIC6RfIBLbowxbuxOU2HejO7PZSlamr51LqkqvTuGtIeJ_b11cu1uW_8ylpQn7szkTDKqLQ8nMV-ATVrsGLGkG68KHI_y7EpFmxPjPmXHpR9a_tbkv6mENvMIjDTGtqszQ/s1600/FileNames2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbnBEA0gtCEIC6RfIBLbowxbuxOU2HejO7PZSlamr51LqkqvTuGtIeJ_b11cu1uW_8ylpQn7szkTDKqLQ8nMV-ATVrsGLGkG68KHI_y7EpFmxPjPmXHpR9a_tbkv6mENvMIjDTGtqszQ/s320/FileNames2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It takes some time to export files, which is also where the image stabilization occurs, so factor that in. The Insta360 Viewer is available for PC/Mac/Android/IOS if you want to view the raw files.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-24291952148779417242018-05-22T17:00:00.002-04:002018-05-22T17:04:25.198-04:00Where Wyzecam V2 Android Saves Videos/PicturesManually recorded videos from playback are saved to this folder<br>
\Wyze\Camera\manual<br><br>
Files are numeric (e.g. 1526426401.mp4) with date stamps on when the manual record was made.<br><br>
The preview videos for notifications are saved in<br>
\Wyze\Camera\Video<br><br>
Camera's ID number prefixes the video name followed by a video ID number. To make it easier, use the share function then file manager within the application to see the nickname of each video and its actual recording time, then copy it to your downloads folder.<br><br>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Wyze-Indoor-Wireless-Camera-Vision/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527022954&sr=1-2&keywords=wyzecam+v2&dpID=41dFbSyyPsL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&linkCode=li2&tag=primbuteffe-20&linkId=e216a951f8e7338c1c12e4a5cf2e6047" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B076H3SRXG&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=primbuteffe-20" ></a><img src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=primbuteffe-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B076H3SRXG" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-52241240372811830122016-05-27T22:04:00.002-04:002016-05-28T11:03:18.461-04:00Switching Audio to Rift when Launching EDThis technique is a workaround for programs launched directly from Windows. Programs launched from within Oculus Home switch audio automatically. Unfortunately I do not have a solution for SteamVR games. If you find a way I'd be interested to know.<br><br>
<b>Steps</b><br>
1. Download and install <a href="https://github.com/sirWest/AudioSwitch">AudioSwitch</a><br>
2. Run AudioSwitch from the commandline to display audio devices<br>
<pre>
cmd.exe
cd "C:\Program Files (x86)\AudioSwitch"
audioswitch /l
</pre>
3. Take note of your device numbers<br>
<pre>
C:\Program Files (x86)\AudioSwitch>Audioswitch.exe /l
C:\Program Files (x86)\AudioSwitch>
Devices available:
0 Headphones (Rift Audio)
1 Realtek Digital Output(Optical) (Realtek High Definition Audio)
2 Realtek Digital Output (Realtek High Definition Audio)
<3> Speakers (6- Bose USB Audio)
4 Headset Earphone (2- ASTRO Wireless Transmitter )
</pre>
In my case the Rift is device 0 while my speakers are device 3.<br><br>
4. Create a .BAT file on your desktop and enter the following lines.<br>
<pre>
@echo off
cd "C:\Program Files (x86)\AudioSwitch\"
echo Switching Audio to Rift
Audioswitch.exe /s 0
echo Starting ED Launcher
"C:\Program Files (x86)\Frontier\EDLaunch\EDLaunch.exe"
Audioswitch.exe /s 3
</pre>
5. Double-click on the BAT file to Run<br>
The batch file should open a cmd window. Your default audio device becomes the Rift. Then the Elite Dangerous Launcher starts. When the Elite Dangerous Launcher is closed, the script switches default audio back to speakers before closing.
<br><br>
<b>Update:</b>
If you want to launch programs like VoiceAttack, Captail's Log and such before the ED Launcher use following syntax:<br>
<pre>
start "" "Program Executable"
</pre>
My current launcher looks like this<br>
<pre>
@echo off
cd "C:\Program Files (x86)\AudioSwitch\"
echo Switching Audio to Rift
Audioswitch.exe /s 0
start "" "C:\Program Files (x86)\VoiceAttack\VoiceAttack.exe"
echo Starting ED Launcher
"C:\Program Files (x86)\Frontier\EDLaunch\EDLaunch.exe"
Audioswitch.exe /s 3
</pre>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-19139959331599639732016-05-09T22:00:00.001-04:002020-10-06T10:32:41.642-04:00Mounting a Leap Motion on Oculus CV1So we have a short term problem. The CV1 has a curved face while the Leap Motion is flat. Also the new VR Mount, as of this writing, is still some weeks away. Turns out you don't need a special mount or even a 3d printed one if you have a supply store nearby.<br><br>
<b>Materials</b><br>
<a href="http://amzn.to/1UQ7Utn">Mounting Putty (paid link)</a> (e.g. Velcro White Tack Putty, Blu Tack, FunTak etc.)<br>
<a href="http://amzn.to/1UQ7Utn">Painter's tape (paid link)<a/><br>
<a href="http://amzn.to/1UQ8BTJ">USB 3.0 extension cable (paid link)</a><br>
<a href="http://amzn.to/1NpywA6">Velcro ties (paid link)</a><br>
<br>
Most of the above you can find in Home Depot if you're in the States. The painter's tape is to mark where the leap motion should go. It has to be painter's tape because I want this to be cleanly removable. The same reason for using mounting putty/tack instead of Sugru. The Velcro ties is for fastening the Leap Motion's cable together with the CV1's. The USB 3.0 extension cable is optional though recommended to reach the nearest spare USB 3.0 port on the PC.<br>
<br>
<b>Tools:</b><br>
Webcam<br>
Scissors<br>
<br>
It's best to use a cheaper webcam that leaks some IR lights. I tried to use my phone's camera but its IR filter was so good I couldn't see the Rift's lights.<br>
<br>
<b>Finding the lights</b><br>
Open the Windows Camera App (Windows 10, 8) or any equivalent application that will let you live view your camera. Start up Oculus Home then point your Rift so the camera can see it. You should see the lights on the front of the Rift. We want to mount the Leap Motion in a way that covers the fewest lights.<br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQtIhX7Xp7xqfq4PwtWnM3Jxt4WhV3wZtHMYo6QWa7c1IpVRZOKjWZ5Eaee6muQNcTKpJlieqJlwQuND2O0ANaKrQo4YdsSrlhg3kv6vBMBSs0rQ5yCCHZ7xqwVEPoYvVWmud5d2LtA/s1600/1LightsonHMD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQtIhX7Xp7xqfq4PwtWnM3Jxt4WhV3wZtHMYo6QWa7c1IpVRZOKjWZ5Eaee6muQNcTKpJlieqJlwQuND2O0ANaKrQo4YdsSrlhg3kv6vBMBSs0rQ5yCCHZ7xqwVEPoYvVWmud5d2LtA/s320/1LightsonHMD.jpg" /></a></div>
<Br>
Cut a piece of painters tape in the size of the Leap Motion.<Br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNApuX670aSSIwVm6n5Lx8PMCzauy5AIo9OfG-J1v8DJsheNmHZzIfw9llJkoGqZOXRNu4eyeZrRzxFk87umy736YBNTc-cz4Ji7HSXaEKigpMT2FpaxoXkDAjkI65nVU4c_3G8ruaYg/s1600/2CutPainters+Tape+to+Size.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNApuX670aSSIwVm6n5Lx8PMCzauy5AIo9OfG-J1v8DJsheNmHZzIfw9llJkoGqZOXRNu4eyeZrRzxFk87umy736YBNTc-cz4Ji7HSXaEKigpMT2FpaxoXkDAjkI65nVU4c_3G8ruaYg/s320/2CutPainters+Tape+to+Size.jpg" /></a></div>
<Br>
Using the webcam as a guide, mount the painter's tape on the Rift avoiding the lights. Give the lights as much room as you can.<Br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvL-iTPZCsBpVmUM21XQVvcHyDbrj773zgNi07wXbwS5vfQxcBKdKu1gY8sP08ypbIh9W6A-1ukxcmL_wBUIgxVeAs1RuuHUOiao-73Mi_GPjIzz_Z9ZtXD5aauPD69OETc_jdVO7dIg/s1600/3MounttheTape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvL-iTPZCsBpVmUM21XQVvcHyDbrj773zgNi07wXbwS5vfQxcBKdKu1gY8sP08ypbIh9W6A-1ukxcmL_wBUIgxVeAs1RuuHUOiao-73Mi_GPjIzz_Z9ZtXD5aauPD69OETc_jdVO7dIg/s320/3MounttheTape.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM452LVWtxR06F-f-nnbBrzLMrpqqE-ewWvKri4EIptU9545vEt_m1Ii8vuVcE3dzNA9qFEq5xwzuq3fHrUOOOTMSUZAsaEPYevFSPQXhv9AmXFkkcz8MYh37karhRXKy_blBabCOSow/s1600/4CameraPhoneNoIR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM452LVWtxR06F-f-nnbBrzLMrpqqE-ewWvKri4EIptU9545vEt_m1Ii8vuVcE3dzNA9qFEq5xwzuq3fHrUOOOTMSUZAsaEPYevFSPQXhv9AmXFkkcz8MYh37karhRXKy_blBabCOSow/s320/4CameraPhoneNoIR.jpg" /></a></div>
<Br>
Some Cameras may have stronger IR filtering.<Br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAFDm2P9UGY855HHvJHBGlkGyKt6wjoGsrmwqb8yPtP8S0n6XqifRtZV6MeJvhRdHIuTAYfC3jIbiV7V5a3AI2ZNEbtskULCsRpVK5B9ErR1pMNTSUviODSYmPyKxBzLHRrubWjcnEVQ/s1600/5PuttyandLeap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAFDm2P9UGY855HHvJHBGlkGyKt6wjoGsrmwqb8yPtP8S0n6XqifRtZV6MeJvhRdHIuTAYfC3jIbiV7V5a3AI2ZNEbtskULCsRpVK5B9ErR1pMNTSUviODSYmPyKxBzLHRrubWjcnEVQ/s320/5PuttyandLeap.jpg" /></a></div>
<Br>
Roll a piece of tack and mount to the back of the Leap Motion toward one end. Repeat for the other end. Leave the center unoccupied. The two ends will accomodate the curve of the Rift.<br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB0STtJ_ZFUnsfWxDOv_3R-QWuLUOi4EpNqsoyOmR_0D6Ckaq3-mBGc1FhAwIbKNjtqtYDMQPWrWmcfwd_i96wcFsX_qfvJm69wNQLUSNS_QLkUA2lXb397SGoMFx0SgSlNq8CJfb3Cg/s1600/6RollPuttyToRear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB0STtJ_ZFUnsfWxDOv_3R-QWuLUOi4EpNqsoyOmR_0D6Ckaq3-mBGc1FhAwIbKNjtqtYDMQPWrWmcfwd_i96wcFsX_qfvJm69wNQLUSNS_QLkUA2lXb397SGoMFx0SgSlNq8CJfb3Cg/s320/6RollPuttyToRear.jpg" /></a></div>
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<Br>
Reinforce the mount by adding additional tack to the top and bottom of the Leap Motion.<br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5WJZbAKY5ha54GYFgG6SmCHg4N9Mjvig37thKn1kzP_DSMf3Af0pyEmPDgkIreq_mpSRZa-zYhP1zJLcMSAIzBRBD5kX_H668IV0OLPXwXtQzJt0I4dtcrucb3ewi7OICHXViWNiwJg/s1600/8-Reinforce.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5WJZbAKY5ha54GYFgG6SmCHg4N9Mjvig37thKn1kzP_DSMf3Af0pyEmPDgkIreq_mpSRZa-zYhP1zJLcMSAIzBRBD5kX_H668IV0OLPXwXtQzJt0I4dtcrucb3ewi7OICHXViWNiwJg/s320/8-Reinforce.jpg" /></a></div>
<br>
Route the Leap's main cable to the opposite side of the Rift.<br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsw7M_0hIY2fXEfviMSjUG4N7weGWPUC7Ep6hlDL0Oo9BFCJoT5VcvkJKglQcMKn6VI-yBKyVqdXSv0wdfK2ynJH4TLY10wbt2NDBF57wdOT13WFA-oCdxj3NkmII7PxhraFODUmHTgw/s1600/9-RouteUSBCable.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsw7M_0hIY2fXEfviMSjUG4N7weGWPUC7Ep6hlDL0Oo9BFCJoT5VcvkJKglQcMKn6VI-yBKyVqdXSv0wdfK2ynJH4TLY10wbt2NDBF57wdOT13WFA-oCdxj3NkmII7PxhraFODUmHTgw/s320/9-RouteUSBCable.jpg" /></a></div>
<Br>
Use Velcro ties to fasten the Leap USB cable to the Rift cable. Make it as tight as possible so the Leap doesn't get yanked from the face.<Br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkEFnTAVF2jUUk9AVu-ltIIE_rqV_W3lZy3bkiA81xvSxuMh7DQtjSLMg0o_Rb2I8qPCeeGdIhMuE8VNLXj8ul6pgnB6Q4ln2yAZQuRRaPQYAjRoRHS39TovMYUrSokj1maUQ-FDNsXA/s1600/10-VelcrotoRift.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkEFnTAVF2jUUk9AVu-ltIIE_rqV_W3lZy3bkiA81xvSxuMh7DQtjSLMg0o_Rb2I8qPCeeGdIhMuE8VNLXj8ul6pgnB6Q4ln2yAZQuRRaPQYAjRoRHS39TovMYUrSokj1maUQ-FDNsXA/s320/10-VelcrotoRift.jpg" /></a></div>
<br>Extend the Leap USB cable as necessary. I used a 6 foot cable.<br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7duzIEZgZ4VTDlYbycy08eGigxE_bqsaMmnP51p-BiaA2w7TJkBcWM4NlN_4arXg-9IW38dNneO_yRmkAdteYb8FlM0DS4VtKZaOAqbEAm0Db_plU6LaSWrtfFEg5OgLWhIyaIbelng/s1600/11-ExtensionCable.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7duzIEZgZ4VTDlYbycy08eGigxE_bqsaMmnP51p-BiaA2w7TJkBcWM4NlN_4arXg-9IW38dNneO_yRmkAdteYb8FlM0DS4VtKZaOAqbEAm0Db_plU6LaSWrtfFEg5OgLWhIyaIbelng/s320/11-ExtensionCable.jpg" /></a></div>
<br>Depending on the angle to the camera some lights may be obscured but it doesn't appear to affect tracking.<br><br>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLsOOc6OVhXimScEGM_i8vGYr40Ee7jl04vGQBSkfQEuMF9CcRRPEmW7UB2irQrxgOc0Q7X0_eZSlngqtzmADTn-TfiZJhMWD7aMlIqfqOK9qwhwhAT6SndA-KjNBc-rkqwXtdxQur9w/s1600/12-OculusOcluded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLsOOc6OVhXimScEGM_i8vGYr40Ee7jl04vGQBSkfQEuMF9CcRRPEmW7UB2irQrxgOc0Q7X0_eZSlngqtzmADTn-TfiZJhMWD7aMlIqfqOK9qwhwhAT6SndA-KjNBc-rkqwXtdxQur9w/s320/12-OculusOcluded.jpg" /></a></div>
<br>
Have fun!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-40530713000323137092016-01-01T06:44:00.001-05:002016-01-01T08:45:07.713-05:00Use the HORI Ace-Edge controller with Elite DangerousI usually fly with a Saitek X55 and I had a backup Thrustmaster T-Flight but neither was available. There were Xbox 360 controllers lying around but I remembered having an Ace Combat 6 HORI Ace-Edge stick from the Xbox 360 Game. So why not try to make it work with Elite Dangerous?
<br />
<br />
<b>Steps</b>
<br />
<ol>
<li>Install the Xbox 360 controller drivers</li>
<li>Test the ACE Edge</li>
<li>Get USB the VID/PID</li>
<li>Add VID/PID to DeviceMappings.xml</li>
<li>Create a new Custom Control Profile</li>
</ol>
<br />
<b>Install the Xbox 360 controller drivers</b><br />
Download the Xbox 360 controller drivers from <a href="https://www.microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/d/xbox-360-controller-for-windows">Microsoft</a> then install. A reboot may be necessary.<br />
<br />
<b>Test the ACE Edge</b><br />
Run joy.cpl -> Properties -> Test. Move the stick and press all the buttons to test that you are getting inputs. The Throttle two knobs on the throttle are dummies. The button above LB is also false. M1/M2/M3 mode switches are not recognized by joy.cpl. Same with the Xbox button on the Stick body.<br />
<br />
<cite>Axes</cite>
<br />
<pre>
X Axis/Y Axis - Joystick pitch/roll
Z Axis - Throttle forward back + paddle left and right!
Throttle is Xbox right trigger
Paddle is Xbox left trigger
Y Rotation - R-stick (up/down)
X Rotation - R-stick (left right)
</pre>
<br />
<cite>Joystick Buttons</cite>
<br />
<pre>
Point of View Hat - D-Pad (desc-positions, right thumb)
Button 1 - A Button (fire trigger)
Button 6 - Right Bumper (pinkie switch)
Button 2 - B Button (Red)
Button 3 - X Button (Blue)
Button 4 - Y Button (Yellow)
Button 8 - Start Button (Forward right index finger)
</pre>
<br />
<cite>Throttle Buttons</cite>
<br />
<pre>
Button 5 - LB [Left Bumper]
Button 7 - Back
Button 9 - Left Stick Button (Left Index finger / LS Press)
</pre>
<br />
<br />
<b>Get USB the VID/PID</b><br />
We need to register the Vendor ID and Product ID of the Ace-Edge with ED. Run Control Panel -> Device Manager -> Microsoft Common Controller for Windows -> Xbox 360 Controller for Windows -> Details -> Property: Hardware IDs<br />
<pre>
USB\VID_0F0D&PID_000E&REV_2231
USB\VID_0F0D&PID_000E
</pre>
<br />
It should return the above if you only have the Ace-Edge hooked up as a gamepad. <br />
<b><br />
Add VID/PID to DeviceMappings.xml</b><br />
Find your existing Custom*.binds and make backups in C:\Users\<i>your user id</i>\AppData\Local\Frontier Developments\Elite Dangerous\Options\Bindings.
ED currently comes in 32-bit (1.5), 64-bit (1.5) and 64-bit-only Horizons (2.02). There appears to be multiple directories where DeviceMappings.xml can be modified. But you only need to change the one you intend to play.
<br />
<br>
(Elite Dangerous Ships 1.5 and Horizons 2.02)<br>
C:\Users\<your user>\AppData\Local\Frontier_Developments\Products\elite-dangerous-64<br>
(Elite Dangerous Ships 1.5)<br>
C:\Users\<your user>\AppData\Local\Frontier_Developments\Products\FORC-FDEV-D-1002<br>
<br>
Inside either of those is a ControlSchemes directory. Make a backup of DeviceMappings.xml. Modify DeviceMappings.xml then add the PID and VID to the Gamepad area. I put mine in the end of that section right before the Gamepad tag for the XB1 controller.<br>
<pre>
<!-- ACE Edge -->
<alternative><pid>0F0D</pid><vid>000E</vid></alternative>
</pre>
<br />
Don't forget to save! If you want a sample <a href="http://pastebin.com/MR8KP5bc">here</a> is the posted code.<br />
<br />
<b>Create a new Custom Control Profile</b><br />
Start Elite Dangerous. If you did the above right, the joystick D-pad should let you navigate the menu. The Trigger button (A) will work as select. From here you can go to Options -> Controls -> Xbox 360 Controller. From here you can start customizing as you desire.
<br /><br />
I discovered that the Paddle didn't work well as yaw or thruster. When I tried to map it to Left/Right Thruster Axis it turned into a permanent right thrust/turn. Instead I treat it as a modifier button in combination with D-pad to provide left/right thrust. That's too bad since this was used as yaw in the AC6 game. By default the yaw is mapped to the R-Stick x axis.
<br /><br />
The Throttle D-pad is supposed to mirror the Joystick D-pad but it wasn't reliable to trigger on my stick so I left it alone. The calibration on my throttle was also a bit suspect when running in full range. If I need a reverse switch I can use the index finger button on the throttle. Also the Joystick Start button couldn't be mapped to the game. It appears to be hard coded as an escape key.
<br /><br />
I made an <a href="http://pastebin.com/XGaV8j6J">AceEdge.binds</a> which can be used as a starting point. Just copy it to the ControlSchemes folder.
Update:
Found a thread on this in Frontier forums on <a href="https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthread.php?t=122193">Ace Edge Z-Rotation does not work</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-4659274777576255482015-09-26T21:40:00.001-04:002015-10-07T22:54:43.117-04:00Getting Oculus DK2, Windows 10 and Elite Dangerous 1.4 to WorkThis trick also works for other applications. It also works for Runtime 4.4 with the difference that Windows 8 compatibility isn't needed to install the display drivers.<br>
<ol>
<li> Uninstall any previous Oculus Runtime and reboot
<li> Install Oculus Runtime 0.5.0.1.0 with Windows 8 compatibility mode. If you don't you will receive an error that the Oculus Display driver couldn't be installed. Complete the install then reboot.
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<li> When you turn on the HMD, Windows will say Oculus detected followed by Oculus Service failed. This is fine.
<li> Go to "C:\Program Files (x86)\Oculus\Service\" and right-click "OVRServer_x86.exe". Create a shortcut.
<li> Right-click the shortcut, hit properties. In Shortcut Tab, hit Advanced, then click x Run as administrator.
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<li> Still in the shortcut properties, hit Compatiblity then enable x Run this program in compatibility mode for Windows 8.
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<li> Now click on the shortcut. This should launch a CLI session showing the server process.
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<li> Launch the Config Utility, switch the HMD to Extended mode. Setup your profile. Then run the Demo Scene.
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</ol>
This OVR server process is what the Demo Scene and other Rift programs look for to run. In the case of Elite Dangerous, you need this service to be up before starting game. In ED's Graphics options you should find Oculus (Headphones) and Oculus (Speakers) available as the fourth and fifth option if the service is detected correctly. Also if you are on multiple displays, the sequence listed by the game isn't the same as in Windows. Windows identifies the Rift as #2 but in ED this is a fourth unnamed display (names only go up to Tertiary for some reason). You can tell if you have the correct display as this is probably the only one that will allow 1920x1080 plus 75hz refresh.<br><br>
Whenever you startup the PC you will get the Oculus VR service failure. This should be normal and mitigated by manually starting OVRServer_x86. <br>
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There were some reports of bootloops that can happen if you setup the runtime as Windows 8 Compatibility mode rather than the OVRService so take note.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-39853563568672535642013-10-21T19:47:00.001-04:002013-10-21T19:59:30.161-04:00Make Your Own 7" to 8" Tablet StandI have a 8" Tablet but couldn't find a cover that I like with a decent stand function. So in DIY spirit, I made one out of cardboard. The stand folds so it can adjust to both landscape and portrait mode. The material is light weight, biodegradable and dirt cheap ... being cardboard. If it gets worn you can always make a new one. <br />
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The secret to its stability is the W-shape. All you need is a pair of scissors, a ruler and the cardboard. I had some white cardboard that just matched the tablet. The triangle cut doesn't have to be precise, just deep enough to hold the tablet but not too deep that your USB cable can't fit anymore.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-75317888534755708602012-09-01T08:38:00.000-04:002013-08-23T09:51:01.792-04:00Netgear GS108T and Synology DS412+ Set Up Link Aggregation<b>The Process</b><br />
First step is to power down the DS412+ and anything else in your network that needs re-cabling. Make sure to leave at least 2 ports free for the DS412+. Find the two Gig-E ports on the back of the DS412+ and hook it up to any two ports on the Smart Switch. In my case I made the Netgear GS108T the main switch and hooked it up to my Wireless router that connects to the Internet. A second Netgear switch is hooked up by a long cable to another room where the desktop and Xbox reside. Across the living room to the TV I have my old Linux NAS hooked up. Power everything up and make sure everything is communicating as is.<br /><br />
<center>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B007JLE84C" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B003KP8VSK" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
</center>
<br />
<b>Configure Link Aggregation on GS108T</b><br />
The GS108T comes with Windows software called SmartControlManager. Alternatively you can access it via a Web Browser if you know its IP address. How do you find it's address aside from using Smart Control Manager? My LAN uses the Wireless router as a DHCP server. So I logged on to that device and listed all DHCP client. Using the names I found the GS108Tv2. A quick browser launch and an http://<nasrouter address="" s=""> got me to the admin page.</nasrouter><br />
<nasrouter address="" s=""><br />
From here I choose the Switching tab which immediately shows me the active ports. Follow LAG -> Basic -> LAG Configuration. Select the LAG1 entry (since this is an 8-port switch, you can have a maximum of 4 LAG). This is where it confused me at first. Selecting LAG1 populates the entry fields above it. Enter a Description, I chose "diskstation" then LAG Type of "LACP". Hit Apply.
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</nasrouter><br />
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Move to the LAG Membership option. From here select LAG1 then choose the ports the DS412+ was hooked up to. There is a yellow button that is equivalent of Select All. This works only if you have one device running LAG on this switch. Hit Apply. <br />
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That's it for the GS108T. Now to enable it on the NAS.
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<b>Configure Link Aggregation on Synology DS412+</b><br />
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Login to DSM on the DS412+ then launch Control Panel -> Network -> Network Interface -> Create<br />
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x IEEE 802.3ad Dynamic Link Aggregation -> Next<br />
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The two LAN ports should be automatically selected -> Next<br />
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x Get network configuration automatically (DHCP) -> Apply<br />
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You will now find one connection called Bond 1 rather than two LAN connections. Congratulations, you now have Channel Bonding turned on! The two LAN ports will now start working as a team for all incoming and outgoing requests. <br />
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Give it a stress test if you like. <br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-68779289876819940182012-08-31T15:14:00.001-04:002020-10-06T10:18:05.294-04:00Synology DS412+ and My New Storage Network<b>Background</b>
<br />
Back in 2000 I purchased my first DV camcorder. It was a Canon Elura that used MiniDV tapes. Every tape extracted about 13GB. Even today that's still a lot. You can easily fill hard drives with that much storage. At first I only edited the extracted clips then deleted them leaving the original footage on MiniDV tape. Tape was good for archival if you didn't mind waiting for the re-extraction.<br />
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Years have passed and I've switched to CF card which can't be used for archival. I have BD burners to make archival copies but I've found that old footage is still best kept close by. Initially I built a RAID desktop for keeping just photos. Then when .5 and 1TB drives became common I started keeping video on those drives.<br />
<br />
It was initially going to be temporary but I've found that family events like birthdays and such required me to dig out years old footage so I never went back to delete them. I got used to it. Fast forward to today and it's time for a major upgrade. My second generation <b>self-built NAS</b> is an Zotac IONITX-A-U running Ubuntu and SAMBA hooked up to USB drives via a hub. It's decent but not very fast. All those drives were formatted in NTFS and maxed out at <b>25MB/sec to read</b>. That's enough for viewing a few pictures here and there. But I wanted something closer to what direct SATA gave me.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWyuW3iR6QLyd07U0-WiI9esOzT7wJYZw2yO1pL0Gmcoezgv6su-950WUdirSFRcVaaYmVW27TVBmdwupEnrFU7qHps7pNKK2e1VKxpAmZdbafZIh0o7Su_zZvHe01isLLuhpa4tF4ew/s1600/Mylan_01(3).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWyuW3iR6QLyd07U0-WiI9esOzT7wJYZw2yO1pL0Gmcoezgv6su-950WUdirSFRcVaaYmVW27TVBmdwupEnrFU7qHps7pNKK2e1VKxpAmZdbafZIh0o7Su_zZvHe01isLLuhpa4tF4ew/s400/Mylan_01(3).jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<b>Picking the Synology DS412+</b><br />
I originally considered the Drobo, Netgear and EMC/Iomega NAS. I read the <a href="http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/nas">reviews</a> and the Synology brand kept coming up. Two things sold me on the thing: (1) Simplicity of DSM (2) Raw performance. It was the <a href="http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/nas/nas-charts/view">fastest</a> of the more reasonably priced NAS on the market.<br />
<br />
Here's a sample of it's performance in my current configuration.
<b> </b><br />
<br />
<u>Robocopy Write test</u><br />
Copy from internal SATA drive to Diskstation via 1Gbps port <b>(82.5MB/sec)</b>
<br />
<font size="-1">
<pre>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total Copied Skipped Mismatch FAILED Extras
Dirs : 132 131 1 0 0 0
Files : 9460 9460 0 0 0 1
Bytes : 233.776 g 233.776 g 0 0 0 14.5 k
Times : 0:48:33 0:48:22 0:00:00 0:00:11
Speed : 86472142 Bytes/sec.
Speed : 4947.975 MegaBytes/min.
Ended : Wed Aug 22 13:49:27 2012
</pre></font>
<br />
<u>Robocopy Read test</u><br />
Copy from Diskstation to internal SATA via 1Gbps port <b>(99.98 MB/sec)</b>
<br /><font size="-1">
<pre>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total Copied Skipped Mismatch FAILED Extras
Dirs : 132 131 1 0 0 0
Files : 9461 9461 0 0 0 0
Bytes : 233.776 g 233.776 g 0 0 0 0
Times : 0:40:03 0:39:54 0:00:00 0:00:09
Speed : 104837993 Bytes/sec.
Speed : 5998.878 MegaBytes/min.
Ended : Wed Aug 22 14:38:14 2012</pre></font>
<br />
Not bad is it? That's over half the bandwidth of a directly hooked up SATA drive. Given that a single gigabit ethernet port has a theoretical cap of <a href="http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gigabit-ethernet-bandwidth,2321-3.html">125MB/sec</a> its looking pretty good. What this allows me to do is pick out some footage, pictures and music from the NAS and output to local USB and SATA drives. It's the not the fastest configuration but while I'm doing quick edits in Sony Vegas on my laptop, the desktop could be rendering a composition in Adobe After Effects.<br /><br />
<b>My current configuration</b>
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLE84C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007JLE84C&linkCode=as2&tag=primbuteffe-20">Synology DS412+</a> <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">(paid link) </span>with 4x Seagate 3TB 7200rpm drives with LAG enabled<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Z5GPOG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004Z5GPOG&linkCode=as2&tag=primbuteffe-20">ProRaid+</a> <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">(paid link) </span>with 4x Western Digital 2TB 5400rpm drives attached via SATA<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007YJX82M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007YJX82M&linkCode=as2&tag=primbuteffe-20">ioSafe SOLO G3 Fireproof and Waterproof 3TB Hard Drive</a> <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">(paid link) </span>for critical backups via USB 3.0<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KP8VSK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003KP8VSK&linkCode=as2&tag=primbuteffe-20">Netgear GS108T-NAS Prosafe 8-Port Gigabit Smart Switch</a> <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">(paid link) </span>attached to 2x1Gigabit Ports on DS412+
<br />
Cyberpower 485AV UPS attached via USB
<br />
<center>
<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B007JLE84C" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B003KP8VSK" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
</center>
<br />
Hold your horses! What's that switch and UPS for you ask? The UPS gives the NAS a chance to do a proper shutdown should there be a power failure. The Smart Switch allows you to bond two ethernet ports together on the DS412+ but keep one IP address. A plain dumb switch would allow you to use the second port as a backup. But a Smart/Managed switch allows both to be used actively with a feature called Link Aggregation (LAG). A 1GigE port has a theoretical max of 125MB/sec but there is some waste in there that brings the real throughput much less. Those individual SATA devices in our previous tests could achieve 175MB/sec. Not to mention I have the ProRaid shared simultaneously as the DS412+'s internal volumes. I can't exceed the throughput of a single port for one transfer but I can have multiple devices and transfers at once each using either available port. Effectively you can have a ceiling of 250MB/sec on all combined transfers.<br />
<br />
<b>Modest Simultaneous Device Test </b><br />
Can we prove that LAG is useful? <br />
<br />
(a) Copy from Leonovo W520 SATA to Diskstation via Wireless-G (35.37MB/sec write)
<br />
<font size="-1">
<pre> Total Copied Skipped Mismatch FAILED Extras
Dirs : 40 38 2 0 0 12
Files : 962 961 0 0 1 1
Bytes : 125.429 g 125.425 g 0 0 4.39 m 226.63 m
Times : 1:00:35 1:00:30 0:00:00 0:00:05
Speed : 37092186 Bytes/sec.
Speed : 2122.431 MegaBytes/min.
Ended : Wed Aug 29 22:31:54 2012
</pre></font>
(b) Copy from Ubuntu IONITX-A-U NAS from USB drive via 1Gig-E (22MB/sec write)<br />
<br />
(c) Copy from HPE-380T whole SATA HDD (74.97 MB/sec write)<br />
<br />
<font size="-1">
<pre> Total Copied Skipped Mismatch FAILED Extras
Dirs : 568 565 3 0 0 0
Files : 13809 13809 0 0 0 0
Bytes : 748.996 g 748.996 g 0 0 0 0
Times : 2:51:04 2:50:30 0:00:00 0:00:34
Speed : 78613676 Bytes/sec.
Speed : 4498.310 MegaBytes/min.
Ended : Wed Aug 29 22:42:43 2012
</pre></font>
<br />
Yes! 132MB/sec with three devices. This is a write test which is a slower operation. If I started multiple copies plus video playback I could probably use up more bandwidth. Keep in mind that 125MB is a
theoretical maximum for a single port. The extra port allows other devices to access the NAS if one is fully saturated. <br />
<br />
<br />
<b>A Hint on Adding a Share to your Libraries</b><br />
You might be wondering how I was able to mount My Documents from the NAS. <a href="http://mumblestiltskin.blogspot.com/2011/09/picasa-uncs-network-shares.html">It's a trick using symbolic links</a>.<br />
<br />
Start -> Command Prompt -> Right-click -> Run as Administrator<br />
<br />
<pre>Microsoft Windows [Version 6.1.7601]
Copyright (c) 2009 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.
C:\Windows\system32> mkdir \diskstation
C:\Windows\system32> cd \diskstation
C:\diskstation>mklink /d Pictures \\diskstation\Pictures
symbolic link created for Pictures <===> \\diskstation\Pictures </pre>
<br />
From here you can go to Explorer -> Libraries -> Pictures -> Properties -> Include a Folder
<br />
<br />
<b>Power Consumption</b><br />
<pre>2.7 Watts plugged in for DS412+ with 4 ST3000DM001
17.3 watts powering up (button press)
45.9 watts powering up (spinning up)
62.2 watts peak powering up (blue flashing light)
44-46 watts powered up doing raid check
49 watts doing CrystalMark
</pre>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-5605305861944184332012-08-25T22:54:00.002-04:002020-10-06T10:18:49.690-04:00Mediasonic ProRaid and e-SATA without Port MultiplierGood news everyone! The Lenovo W520 has an e-SATA port that didn't support port multiplier (tested with JBOD enclosures) but there are options for external RAID. I have on my desk a Mediasonic ProRaid+ HFR2-SU3S2FW enclosure. Unlike plain JBOD enclosures like the Thermaltake BlacX Duet or the Mediasonic ProBox series, this unit presents the drives as a single disk via built in hardware RAID. Only if you run it on JBOD/Spanning mode do you need a port multiplier.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPijF6OUtvBF4O-ZrgRg7kd9L30b7fvYoD717iKPE2MdlMuCq9dKOMZKdCLBrVw4pV1-mPE5OsDeJYVP0seNz5MQrcFrH8ome87boAqqba4WAaxv8-bwdpuRbP0rtzgDwBIkBgpVvrw/s1600/IMG_7912-whatitlookslike.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPijF6OUtvBF4O-ZrgRg7kd9L30b7fvYoD717iKPE2MdlMuCq9dKOMZKdCLBrVw4pV1-mPE5OsDeJYVP0seNz5MQrcFrH8ome87boAqqba4WAaxv8-bwdpuRbP0rtzgDwBIkBgpVvrw/s320/IMG_7912-whatitlookslike.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I have to confess, I didn't buy the ProRaid for the W520. It was meant to become an expansion unit to my NAS which didn't support port multiplier either. I'm thinking I should get another of these units or something from its family. Startech sell similar units though a bit more expensive.<br />
<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B004Z5GPOG" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B003YFHEAC" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B002SQHS0O" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B007B61GVI" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><br />
<br />
I went with the Mediasonic 4-bay because it was cheaper and the good feedback from Amazon, Newegg and Synology forums. The unit I purchased came with e-SATA, USB, FW400 and FW800 ports. Another model skips the FW400 and FW800.<br />
<br />
Attached to the W520's e-SATA port it is presented as "H/W RAID 5" device. I didn't try changing the RAID type but I guess its name may vary according to the RAID selected.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyub0hHRYXrMVRvVYBMVWo0kFMPHBi4omJnU7bYQeGw7Sc1YlLKrRb2c5Rta-1wLNjpvJzu3n1jUonw5vFuPJMqYw7EyxNjt3fSpYUuLnZSAYEBQF_n0LWiynxU2S953TObxtap4BIvQ/s1600/HW+Detection.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="91" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyub0hHRYXrMVRvVYBMVWo0kFMPHBi4omJnU7bYQeGw7Sc1YlLKrRb2c5Rta-1wLNjpvJzu3n1jUonw5vFuPJMqYw7EyxNjt3fSpYUuLnZSAYEBQF_n0LWiynxU2S953TObxtap4BIvQ/s320/HW+Detection.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_GRbYowfsm0CEPhSFVr2D0HI0PtPDZgZhrAKrnjg8OWhMHksu1A-xY5Pj4x3FmxGtBMaeC5TLzpEjq52rAZ-6vnuqmyTNRrpQxpCEuVhj8xaqKEYVGWTUk8sJRYMKaIrca_nQ6fSlrA/s1600/Device+Manager.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_GRbYowfsm0CEPhSFVr2D0HI0PtPDZgZhrAKrnjg8OWhMHksu1A-xY5Pj4x3FmxGtBMaeC5TLzpEjq52rAZ-6vnuqmyTNRrpQxpCEuVhj8xaqKEYVGWTUk8sJRYMKaIrca_nQ6fSlrA/s320/Device+Manager.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Once connected it functions like any other disk which can be initialized then formatted. Windows doesn't know or care that it is a RAID with four 3TB disks. All it sees is an 8.353TB device.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3emCwITJkESkeRdButk4QZrlUTULjsgakmcVB43wpuBjETpNjOiI65fI-tznafiYD4zcuPKTXt7PCl2eO3bnRTAgI2Lgf3C8VwYDypyGnkrHIPw2jUexb9ngF9PKCx2dVe394_x3mRg/s1600/filesystem+on+W520.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3emCwITJkESkeRdButk4QZrlUTULjsgakmcVB43wpuBjETpNjOiI65fI-tznafiYD4zcuPKTXt7PCl2eO3bnRTAgI2Lgf3C8VwYDypyGnkrHIPw2jUexb9ngF9PKCx2dVe394_x3mRg/s320/filesystem+on+W520.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Here is the same device attached to my SMB server. It's hooked up to a non-port multiplier e-SATA port on a Zotac IONITX-A-U motherboard. The operating system is Ubuntu 10.04 with support for NTFS volumes. Disk Analyzer must be using base-10 math as the space reported is 9TB (3x3TB + 3TB parity).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqK0aXTPf3bMSInIVrEnY8vWTT490EImdMmpsRfRrATYrZ0JF6WyX1GMLrIjIEuhjTfhXjc537Uk8cCm2FmqkNKr0nWFiGW5qardLhWxCEObBV62PIYUPYH-qaL7yEWAvBX065jSnoJA/s1600/ProRaid+mounted+on+Linux.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqK0aXTPf3bMSInIVrEnY8vWTT490EImdMmpsRfRrATYrZ0JF6WyX1GMLrIjIEuhjTfhXjc537Uk8cCm2FmqkNKr0nWFiGW5qardLhWxCEObBV62PIYUPYH-qaL7yEWAvBX065jSnoJA/s320/ProRaid+mounted+on+Linux.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSbhEUM6Smk9IwGWCBxS9FWwZbantdY3uODSCdb7dQLdMtAnEb9zpirQN_ZHIUt0HTZNw9gZrdk-uxwWf6BjJ5RIkUfpspx9IxM3eE5QNI5EMg670YLs13rhDeglKYQ-YnU8V6AQ4vIQ/s1600/ProRaid+mounted+on+Linux.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Gotcha for First Initialization</b><br />
Even after reading the <a href="http://forum.mediasonic.ca/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=101">manual</a> it caught me unawares at first. The unit will immediately flash the red H icon after spinup if a RAID setting has not yet been selected. The instructions are explicit, hold down the mode button for 3 seconds until the RAID mode flashes. Press mode several times to select the RAID type. I chose RAID-5 in my case. Then go to the back of the unit. Remove the tab covering the RAID confirmation button next to the power plug. Hold it down until it powers down. Next time you power up the RAID mode is set. The device will be uninitialized if the drives have never been used in that RAID mode before. And any content will be lost once it has started up.<br />
<br />
<center>
<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/aalBe5QpZok?rel=0" width="516"></iframe>
</center>
<br />
If the drives need to be <a href="http://forum.mediasonic.ca/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=25">migrated</a> to another ProRaid unit, you're supposed to be able to use them in the same RAID mode. The trick is to setup the RAID mode with the ProRaid empty. As in, no drives should be inserted until it is RAID confirmed and powered down.<br />
<b></b><br />
<b></b><br />
<b></b><br />
<b>Performance Baseline</b><br />
The ProRaid shows up as a SATA II (3.0Gbps / 384MB/sec) device. Which is fine since the enclosure is meant for 3.5" mechanical hard drives. Spindles will barely reach the limit of even SATA 1.0 (1.5 Gbps / 192MB/sec) bandwidth.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEEaTp9GbwTLosPaHd4pl92QUWe1i5KKQsxAyUP64PtNAl60wHMZ21TFui_s5WvdNNcYiAQTtOtSlnyLeSvjV-37MfXWy59yxmCazbTaKra5KA1dMRu5Vlmww2XCQXHxy5ZFb6HVdVQ/s1600/CrystalMarkTest.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHEEaTp9GbwTLosPaHd4pl92QUWe1i5KKQsxAyUP64PtNAl60wHMZ21TFui_s5WvdNNcYiAQTtOtSlnyLeSvjV-37MfXWy59yxmCazbTaKra5KA1dMRu5Vlmww2XCQXHxy5ZFb6HVdVQ/s320/CrystalMarkTest.jpg" width="291" /></a></div>
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The above readings are with four ST3000DM001 SATA III (6.0Gbps) drives hooked up to my HPE-380T desktop. The physical drives are hidden by the hardware RAID so S.M.A.R.T. info is rather limited. Health status is readable for the array despite the screenshot. What surprised me was how the RAID 5 peaked higher for sequential operation that Software RAID 0. For all other operations types, RAID 0 still won as expected.</div>
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<pre> Speed : 29480409 Bytes/sec.
Speed : 1686.882 MegaBytes/min.
</pre>
<br />
A Robocopy write test was much slower at 28.11 MB/sec. It seems a far cry from the Software RAID 0 setup previously tested. But that's an apples to oranges comparison. The CrystalMark test is still at odds at the above results. I guess I'll take it as a low end baseline for ProRAID. I'm not too disappointed since that's still faster than my Samba server which I use presently. The source disk for the test contained thousands of photos, videos and sound files which were stock material for video editing.<br />
<br />
<b></b><br />
<b>Power Consumption</b><br />
The ProRaid is supposed to power itself down when the host computer shuts down. I tested it with my Lenovo W520, HP Elite 380T and Zotac IONITX-A-U but the unit did not power down while hooked up to either eSATA, USB 3.0 or USB 2.0. Later I would discover that it would shutdown correctly on eSATA for a Synology DS412+. I could have sworn the laptop and desktop were setup for AHCI mode on the BIOS of at least the HP. This is something to research on the <a href="http://forum.mediasonic.ca/viewforum.php?f=22">Mediasonic forum</a>.<br />
<br />
<pre>0.3 watts with power brick plugged in (Vampire Power)
28 watts average with disks at rest
36 watts average with disks operating
43 watts peak observed during spindown
</pre>
<br />
I got those readings with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RGF29Q/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000RGF29Q&linkCode=as2&tag=primbuteffe-20">Kill-A-Watt EZ</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=primbuteffe-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000RGF29Q" style="border: currentcolor; margin: 0px;" width="1" /> <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">(paid link)</span>. My interest was in the peak reading so I could figure out which of my UPS would be able to take it. Happily my old Cyberpower 485VA (300 watt) unit had plenty of headroom for this.
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<br />
Next up: Synology DS412+ and my new storage networkUnknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-40699011953646156732012-08-21T19:50:00.003-04:002020-10-06T10:35:28.707-04:00Software RAID with Seagate 3TB Disks and Windows 7<br />
In an attempt to re-consolidate my data I've recently purchased four (4) 3000GB Seagate Barracuda drives. I use 3000GB rather carefully, that's what's written on the ST3000DM001 label. On Amazon it would say 3TB. If you're already aware of the decimal (used by marketing for <a href="http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1112380">Storage numbers</a>) versus binary (what computers actually use) way of counting then you wouldn't be surprised that it formats to about 2794.39 GB for NTFS on every disk. These drives came preformatted in NTFS in the factory so it only takes a few seconds to initialize the drive in Windows as GPT then quick format with NTFS.<br />
<br />
Now why did I get these instead of Hitachi or Western Digital? They were the cheapest 3TB drives I could get ($149.91 at the time). These were 7200rpm. Plus they were $5 cheaper than even Western Digital Green drives. Also they were on the on Synology's compatibility list.<br />
<br />
<b>What about 7200rpm versus "Green" drives?</b><br />
I have plenty of 5400/5900 rpm drives from several makes. These are decent enough in performance but the baseline is really the 7200rpm drive. In terms of power consumption, the slower drives don't appear to make a big impact in the numbers even I deal with. The Kill-a-Watt is reading 183-210 Watts used for my desktop plus four Barracudas running. With just the drives powered up these were showing 45-60 Watts. The UPS they are hooked up to account for 15 of those Watts. As for heat, well I'll give you that, the 7200rpm does run a bit hotter. But I'm eventually going to run them with a fan in a NAS/RAID setup. Besides, the "Green" drives, particularly WD Caviar <b>Green</b>, have been <b>notorious</b> for some problems coming back from sleep that make them go missing in some RAID configurations. WD even has disclaimer that their desktop drives are not warranted for <a href="http://wdc.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1397/~/difference-between-desktop-edition-and-raid-%28enterprise%29-edition-drives">Business Critical RAID</a>. Which is a change now that Western Digital actually sells <a href="http://wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=810">"Red"</a> drives which are NAS approved. The 7200rpm models equate to the "Black" ones. And they have RE models that are Enterprise-grade.<br />
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<div style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">
Western Digital Caviar Green: 5400 rpm </div>
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Western Digital Red: 5400 rpm (?)</div>
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Seagate Barracuda LP: 5900 rpm </div>
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Seagate Barracuda: 7200rpm </div>
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Western Digital Caviar: 7200 rpm </div>
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Hitachi Deskstar: 7200 rpm
<b> </b></div>
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<b></b><br /></div>
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<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B005T3GRLY" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B004E9SGPY" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=06F350&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B004RORMF6" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=FF003C&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B008JJLW4M" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
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<br />
<b>Are you sure these drives are reliable?</b><br />
No, every drive is a gamble. What matters is whether or not you got a set of good drives in the batch. Also did your seller's carrier keep from throwing the thing around. Every manufacturer from Hitachi to Western Digital has had their share of bad history. I still remember losing 3 IBM "Deathstars" (sold to Hitachi, recently became Western Digital) some years ago. I've also had a mix of success with Maxtor (now Seagate) and Samsung (also now Seagate). And I'm very familiar with the RMA process for Western Digital, which is pretty good in convenience and turn around. They're all the same to me. I just need to have good backups and make my drives as reliable as possible. So the first thing I look at after price is comments on reliability. These <i>ST3000DM001</i> actually have a firmware update released. The drives came with CC4B and the latest out there is CC4H.
<b> </b><br />
<br />
<b>Patching the firmware</b><br />
How did I know these drives came with CC4B? I read the label on the drive and checked Google for hits on "<<model number="number"><i>model> </i>firmware". That lead me to all sorts of threads, including a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/review/R2KZTANFVNKRI5/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B007JLE84C&nodeID=541966&store=pc">Synology DS412+ user that recommended upgrading</a> to this version.
The patch process is available in two ways, Windows executable and CDROM ISO. Well, that's not entirely accurate. Both of them boot up a Linux image which detects your drive through the motherboard's SATA chipset then patches them if valid. </model><br />
<br />
<model number="number">I've discovered the following caveats in the process:</model><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><model number="number">You need an Intel based CPU. It says so in Seagate's website. Also a user that tried an AMD CPU said that it didn't work for him. </model></li>
<li><model number="number">The operation runs once per boot, though you could do multiple drives if they were all present on boot </model></li>
<li><model number="number">It appears to ignore my JMicron based PCI e-sata card, so had to open up my desktop case and swap some drives around </model></li>
<li><model number="number">Your Windows Disk 0 should either be empty, unformatted or be Windows boot device. One of my drives to be patched superceded the boot drive and I had to unformat the 3TB before Windows firmware patch stopped complaining. </model></li>
</ol>
<br />
<model number="number">So if you have an AMD CPU, you might have to borrow another machine. If you've got a laptop, just hope that you have an eSATA port hooked up to a chip that is recognized by Seagate's software. If you're on a Mac or Linux then you should look into booting from ISO. And if you're running Itanium, Power, SPARC or PA-RISC ... well don't look at me!</model><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/uOmx_EUxRs0?rel=0" width="480"></iframe>
</center>
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<br />
<b>Software RAID-0</b><br />
Just for the heck of it, I wanted to try setting up these four drives as a Stripped Volume (Windows RAID-0). I had a pair of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MUYOLW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002MUYOLW&linkCode=as2&tag=primbuteffe-20">Thermaltake BlacX Duet (paid link)</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=primbuteffe-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B002MUYOLW" style="border: currentColor !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> hooked up to two separate e-SATA ports on a JMicron-based PCI card. The disks were initialized as GPT to get a size >2TB.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScObS2gTbQf8g-jVJEkXH-pzVo8raGmevmE5gAwNMBY53ao0MF8xmpd8zladY38CYT12G8kF24QXS6QanKFqWIv8tx2ROzrSKUuToUhfO-LzehWv4ihOWpaMJa0QCBPQj1qfZyTL82w/s1600/SeagateTest_13082012_185327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjScObS2gTbQf8g-jVJEkXH-pzVo8raGmevmE5gAwNMBY53ao0MF8xmpd8zladY38CYT12G8kF24QXS6QanKFqWIv8tx2ROzrSKUuToUhfO-LzehWv4ihOWpaMJa0QCBPQj1qfZyTL82w/s320/SeagateTest_13082012_185327.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Why a Stripe and not a RAID-5? In Windows 7 you will notice that <a href="http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en/w7itproinstall/thread/a1851e42-c705-4558-920c-30ba7c6cf080">option is greyed out</a>. The OS-based RAID-5 is only supported in <a href="http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc786912%28WS.10%29.aspx#BKMK_WINUI">Windows Server</a> versions. Of course you can have hardware RAID or BIOS/driver-based RAID.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyLtidG5MVSgKA1YxHYbSrD5AG7n5thzqUoLD690RHWn_e-UbGuFKOc-dhuneOD6oIaQaroSPQmPKA0awzZiYeOuYcQ_Sw9U5XLIo1qkFOcDkHWbDI_hPTBELBkldc5Re_RU4hKa25CA/s1600/SeagateTest_13082012_185525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyLtidG5MVSgKA1YxHYbSrD5AG7n5thzqUoLD690RHWn_e-UbGuFKOc-dhuneOD6oIaQaroSPQmPKA0awzZiYeOuYcQ_Sw9U5XLIo1qkFOcDkHWbDI_hPTBELBkldc5Re_RU4hKa25CA/s320/SeagateTest_13082012_185525.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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RAID-0 is supposed to be the fastest RAID setup for both read and write. There is no fault tolerance in this setup, which is actually what I want in this case. If any one of the drives fail the entire array fails. I'd like to know pretty quickly that the entire set is working. <br />
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<b>Baseline Tests</b><br />
I wanted to use standard and free tools to stress the disks. So I used Robocopy and <a href="http://crystalmark.info/software/CrystalDiskMark/index-e.html/">CrystalDiskMark</a>. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoo-Fzd8NBGQkWE1MAlA_rHhhsCzneGhUjLs9C1xc0m4Rcb4Ojk1oFsXpDRQRupqXoGH23D20k_EIdxhErBwNgTnr6K0EhUbp8EtOV6oBooz-JhT3TUhQZLi3hj0faxSkH44M0NJRR4w/s1600/SeagateTest_14082012_152336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoo-Fzd8NBGQkWE1MAlA_rHhhsCzneGhUjLs9C1xc0m4Rcb4Ojk1oFsXpDRQRupqXoGH23D20k_EIdxhErBwNgTnr6K0EhUbp8EtOV6oBooz-JhT3TUhQZLi3hj0faxSkH44M0NJRR4w/s320/SeagateTest_14082012_152336.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Above results from four ST3000DM001 SATA-III in a software RAID-0</i>
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This would represent the initial speeds I could reasonably expect from this array. When I use it in a RAID-5 NAS later on, I'm expecting it would be slower. This also helps me determine if I need to bother with link aggregation and a managed switch later on. The theoretical maximum of a gigabit Ethernet is 125MB/s. It should be slower than this in real use, about 111 MB/s according to a test by <a href="http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gigabit-ethernet-bandwidth,2321-7.html">Tom's Hardware</a>. So do I need < =43MB/s read or < =17MB/s write more out of this array?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQGzPdZSYTNxtJb6NL9sfo_PHD0xkz4BBtgN8IQFQ3EA14NWP6a2Jh9hqNYKPtSPtdnFbf1VvFE3q07RbZmqvpwVoAkLdAZy8paJji3zJRA80oK9BAQgWfuOYOOtwV9wwuR7wFR9aHw/s1600/ST3000DM001-SingleTest+DiskOnly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQGzPdZSYTNxtJb6NL9sfo_PHD0xkz4BBtgN8IQFQ3EA14NWP6a2Jh9hqNYKPtSPtdnFbf1VvFE3q07RbZmqvpwVoAkLdAZy8paJji3zJRA80oK9BAQgWfuOYOOtwV9wwuR7wFR9aHw/s320/ST3000DM001-SingleTest+DiskOnly.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>One ST3000DM001 SATA-III by itself</i>.<br />
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Tom's Hardware gives it an average sequential speed of <a href="http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/4tb-3tb-hdd,3183-11.html">119.8 MB/s</a>. <a href="http://www.storagereview.com/seagate_barracuda_3tb_review_1tb_platters_st3000dm001">Storage Review</a> tests have it in the middle of the pack.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyho58XT2Mc9Zf0MOZecpdlv5yMu7e3OZeG0BYoR5NgetpoPsI5PXX6nTDyPtapnWXvY_TiYd1N8c4awBj8G88oyBX35hnn2WbkGIDM89RcszmrhjTEtnp9Ae0jYp5e3ZqIs34PfYaw/s1600/SeagateTest_14082012_153249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyho58XT2Mc9Zf0MOZecpdlv5yMu7e3OZeG0BYoR5NgetpoPsI5PXX6nTDyPtapnWXvY_TiYd1N8c4awBj8G88oyBX35hnn2WbkGIDM89RcszmrhjTEtnp9Ae0jYp5e3ZqIs34PfYaw/s320/SeagateTest_14082012_153249.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Compared to a ST31000340AS SATA-II I've been using as a Render target</i>
</div>
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For the Robocopy test, I used a USB-3 source drive that I knew I can hook up to all my devices for comparative tests later. 85.74 MB/sec is my baseline.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> Speed : 89907202 Bytes/sec.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> Speed : 5144.531 MegaBytes/min</span>.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Robocopy write test</i></div>
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<br />
<b>The Burn In</b><br />
Before feeding these drives into a hardware RAID I wanted to make sure they didn't break within the first few days. My choice of tool was <a href="http://hddscan.com/">HDDScan</a> with CrystalMarkInfo<b>.</b> HDDscan would be left running overnight while I look at Load/Unload Cycle Count and temperature. I wanted to know how hot the drives can get in operation. Load/Unload Cycle Count is how many times the drive had to come of park. An large (more than double-digit) increase means the drives are too aggressive in going to sleep. This would make them unsuitable for RAID application. Most drives are rated for a few hundred thousand in their life and park/unpark would mean a lot of wear in the drive mechanism which would lead to earlier failure. The point of RAID is <b>extra</b> reliability, if your base reliability is compromised it can only do so much.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikuGGE75Ua3YIGSQRroNMPO_TE29uB9H90tyLzp0DtWOJCbSt1U1a-Z3mur0bU9erO1crSUNoxCzzguCYuYcb4rM4R8VraOG5AQRMcO_2HzA0UuxAx8bBUKnFDm_zVi_lMZ8e5EQgZxQ/s1600/SeagateTest_14082012_211715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="85" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikuGGE75Ua3YIGSQRroNMPO_TE29uB9H90tyLzp0DtWOJCbSt1U1a-Z3mur0bU9erO1crSUNoxCzzguCYuYcb4rM4R8VraOG5AQRMcO_2HzA0UuxAx8bBUKnFDm_zVi_lMZ8e5EQgZxQ/s320/SeagateTest_14082012_211715.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfK6cjW5M2EbvPQjcJgjOQwWHxe_ARXdUMaRdeWlJDHTVRTLgHBzHJPiCLH-8saXavN6TW6gNIafHAlEW7N-9PHYrOWEwlom6DO9IZXzG02cRQYrNCwuiLWpzp-W2Fcq7aSOEbEShbQ/s1600/SeagateTest_14082012_211719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="73" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIfK6cjW5M2EbvPQjcJgjOQwWHxe_ARXdUMaRdeWlJDHTVRTLgHBzHJPiCLH-8saXavN6TW6gNIafHAlEW7N-9PHYrOWEwlom6DO9IZXzG02cRQYrNCwuiLWpzp-W2Fcq7aSOEbEShbQ/s320/SeagateTest_14082012_211719.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOtrEn0ZtxJhx_00xlbm988BAXKJyvu0XbGy1rCx-wh6u2e57uUgyLEBbvQ3OsuwlDwMha2RE4-iv_YRQfpFAPhhr_jH8nxJnFQ55ScLbrO14m7K5qS31TJkBjCnL-COED_uknNhXy6Q/s1600/SeagateTest_15082012_181445-sanitized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOtrEn0ZtxJhx_00xlbm988BAXKJyvu0XbGy1rCx-wh6u2e57uUgyLEBbvQ3OsuwlDwMha2RE4-iv_YRQfpFAPhhr_jH8nxJnFQ55ScLbrO14m7K5qS31TJkBjCnL-COED_uknNhXy6Q/s320/SeagateTest_15082012_181445-sanitized.jpg" width="255" /></a></div>
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<br />
I test each drive individually in a JBOD setup. 55-degrees Celsius was the hotest any single drive ever got. The room had an electric fan in a room in the 27-degree Celsius (81 degrees Fahrenheit) range.<br />
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Next up: <a href="http://www.primitivebuteffective.com/2012/08/mediasonic-proraid-and-e-sata-without.html">Mediasonic ProRaid and e-SATA without Port Multiplier</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-71980497002138003602012-06-24T01:15:00.001-04:002020-10-06T10:23:18.426-04:00Tips for the Opteka Steadyvid Pro - Part 3Why did this part take so long? I went on vacation with the Steadyvid Pro to see how it fared out in the real world. There were airplanes, minivans, inappropriate luggage, tour groups and wind.
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It was okay. Not professional grade as the "Pro" would suggest. But at the price, that was far from my expectations.
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<br />
The test videos were shot on with a pair of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WY3TMA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=primbuteffe-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005WY3TMA">GoPro HD Hero 2 (paid link)</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=primbuteffe-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B005WY3TMA" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" /> in a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M18816/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=primbuteffe-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004M18816">3D Hero Housing (paid link).</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=primbuteffe-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B004M18816" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" /> It was mounted on a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010SIAV2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=primbuteffe-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0010SIAV2">Giottos MH621 (paid link)</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=primbuteffe-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0010SIAV2" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" /> to add weight before sticking it to the camera plate.
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<b>How to Fly</b>
<li>Use Two Hands</li>
<li>Wear the right footwear</li>
<li>Mind the inertia</li>
<li>Block the wind</li>
<li>Follow a subject</li>
<li>Be ready to re-balance each time you set it down</li>
<li>Keep smiling</li>
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<b>Use Two Hands</b><br />
Above the handle is a notched piece of plastic for controlling pan. Opteka calls this the "thumb stabilizer." The best way to hold it with your dominant hand on the handle and your non-dominant thumb and index finger lightly holding the thumb stabilizer.
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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/mXlcsQfH-Mc?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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As the video above will demonstrate, one handed and thumb only are the worst ways to hold the stabilizer. I find that side to side movement will cause it to pan on its own. That's why you need to use your index finger as well.
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Also when you tilt the handle from straight it has the tendency to rotate left or right. Having your fingers on the pan can counter that.
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<b>Wear the right footwear</b><br />
A pair of good fitting rubber shoes are best. Practice with the pair you will be wearing for the shoot. Okay, I've worn flip flops and they're okay on flat ground. If you decide to go outdoors it's better to go with something where you can step smoothly and not transmit the shock to your arms. So forget the leather shoes if you can help it.
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<b>Mind the inertia</b><br />
Ease into your movements and changes of direction when you can. The Steadyvid Pro is quite fussy to balance and when traveling on vacation you don't have a lot of time to setup. So I'd tend to use it less than perfectly balanced. That's where my 2 second drop time comes in. There's more "boating" when I change direction but I've taken it as a given.
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<b>Block the wind</b><br />
All stabilizers work best in an isolated environment. If there is a wind you will want some way to break it by putting a person or structure to block the wind. You'll have to get creative on how to keep the subject in the picture and the the wind break out.<br /><br />
Over at the Grand Canyon we had winds going at least 10mph. In those cases, I would use a choke hold and lightly grasp the bottom of the stabilizer's weight. It's a light touch to counter the wind.
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<b>Follow a subject</b><br />
This is a trick I learned with non-stabilized shooting. Camera motion is less noticeable when the subject is also in motion. At least with the stabilizer the motion is less frequent.
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<b>Be ready to re-balance each time you set it down</b><br />
It must be something with the screws used for the gimbal. During the horizontal drop test I find that something shifts even after tightening the silver bolts. I've asked at least one other user at DVInfo and the Steadyvid Pro tends to lose balance when you set it down. Somehow the unit isn't "tight". So be prepared to rebalance for each shot. If you can keep it in your hand between shots that would be best.
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I've accepted that the Steadyvid Pro is less than perfect, so I work with it. This unbalancing problem would be a showstopper for anyone than a casual user.
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<b>Keep smiling</b><br />
When you're out on vacation, the stabilizer is going to get you a few looks. So smile!
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<b>Sample Footage</b><br />
Here it is, the good and the bad. My suggestion, just look at the footage first. Then go back to the tips above and think whether the shot was technically good or bad. Put on your 3D glasses if you dare!
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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/l08UlujnQP8?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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You can compare this against shots made with the CMR Blackbird in <a href="http://www.primitivebuteffective.com/2010/06/tips-for-cmr-blackbird.html">previous post</a>. They're comparable since both were taken only some weeks after learning how to use each stabilizer. Over time you get better.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-22793267649916719152012-05-28T00:24:00.002-04:002020-10-06T10:24:32.448-04:00Tips for the Opteka Steavyvid Pro - Part 2Balancing the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007FDE4Y8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=primbuteffe-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007FDE4Y8">Steadyvid Pro</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=primbuteffe-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B007FDE4Y8" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" /><br />
<ol>
<li>Strip camera to components to be flown</li>
<li>Find the camera's weight</li>
<li>Find the camera's center of gravity (COG)</li>
<li>Mount camera to stage aligning for COG </li>
<li>Mount the plate to have camera COG over gimbal</li>
<li>Expand the stabilizer arch</li>
<li>Attach the weights</li>
<li>Use trim controls to adjust balance</li>
<li>Adjust drop time</li>
</ol>
<b>Strip camera to components to be flown</b><br />
Make sure to remove the camera strap and lens cap. You want the camera to be in a ready to shoot state before attempting to balance. If there is a fold out screen set it up. If the lens is not an internal zoom you'll want it locked into position.
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<b>Find the Camera's Weight</b><br />
It might be a good idea to find out what your entire camera weighs. For camcorders it's not so hard. For DSLRs and Micro 4/3 it will vary on the lens attached. Some lenses will put the camera over the weight limit. Any accessories such as a sliding mounting plate will add to the overall weight. If you're worried by the accesories you've added use a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001S0ZJUM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=primbuteffe-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001S0ZJUM">kitchen scale (paid link)</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=primbuteffe-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B001S0ZJUM" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />. You only have three available weights standard with the Steadyvid Pro. Though the box says it should take 5 lbs (2.26 kg) that might be a stretch.
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<i>Example Weights</i>
<table border="1">
<tr><th>Item</th><th>Weight</th></tr>
<tr><td>Canon 7D Body only</td><td>842g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Canon LP-E6 battery</td><td>77g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Canon 7D + Battery</td><td>919g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Giottos MH621</td><td>244g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Canon 70-200mm 4.0 + Filter + Ring</td><td>924g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Canon 100MM 2.8 Macro + Filter</td><td>664g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sigma 17-50mm 2.8 EX HSM + Filter</td><td>618g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Tokina 11-16mm 2.8 + Filter</td><td>593g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sigma 30mm 1.4 + Filter</td><td>424g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sigma 30mm cap</td><td>14g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Canon 7D + Tokina 11-16 + Filter</td><td>1512g</td></tr>
<tr><td>Canon 7D + Sigma 30 + Filter</td><td>1348g</td></tr>
<tr><td>GoPro HD Hero 2 + 3D Hero Kit + Mount</td><td>455g</td></tr>
</table>
<i>Using metric units for the precision</i>
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<b>Find the Camera's Center of Gravity (COG)</b><br />
My technique for finding the center of gravity is to mount the camera on a plate then roll it around a cylinder like a ballpoint pen. I do this for front to back and side to side. For the Canon 7D it's toward the EOS-mount and the right edge of the viewfinder port. This is your target for the gimbal.
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/missilemike/4589492798/in/photostream/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4589492798_1234f5fd9e_t.jpg" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/missilemike/4588873505/in/photostream/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4588873505_9c8a750e76_t.jpg" /></a></div>
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Another way is to support the camera with one hand and feel for the point where it starts to balance with your finger. Other cameras a regular enough shape that you could pretty much guess it should be the geometric center. The mounting hole for the camera is close to the camera's center of gravity, so it's always a good starting point.
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<b>Mount camera to stage aligning for COG </b><br />
If we assume the gimbal is presently set for center of the stage, you want the camera COG right above the gimbal. The gross control for this is the mounting hole for the camera plate. There isn't an Opteka cookbook out there as of this writing. This will have to be accumulated by the user community. <i>For this example I will be balancing the Canon 7D + Sigma 30mm + 67mm Filter. In the case of the 7D, I used the rear most position on the cross.</i> This is not the optimal position but close enough. There is an even closer position which is the left rear hole. The trouble with that position was grip on the camera. Unless tightened enough there was a tendency for the camera to turn with heavier lenses. What matters is the camera stays in the position you set and is close enough that trim doesn't go out of range.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgabB1nRhbkkbySStPPlTaOgRDMWovsfL4HjlsF2sJPWzlYIW5Udu2PyAs-N3BMZzgApKJJE41ip9KywLqg13_tofJkRaaM2iGisfip7CVO2gSZhfUbSlqnMYAsE46OPTjt0UzJZRgxfg/s1600/COG+to+Plate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="108" width="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgabB1nRhbkkbySStPPlTaOgRDMWovsfL4HjlsF2sJPWzlYIW5Udu2PyAs-N3BMZzgApKJJE41ip9KywLqg13_tofJkRaaM2iGisfip7CVO2gSZhfUbSlqnMYAsE46OPTjt0UzJZRgxfg/s200/COG+to+Plate.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b>Mount the plate to have camera COG over gimbal</b><br />
Now you should be able to mount the plate onto the stage. There is some left-to-right adjustment possible when mounting on the stage. Use the rear screw as a guide and compare it to the current gimbal position. Once your have the left-to-right position fairly close to the COG the next step is to deal with the arch. <i>For the Canon 7D + Sigma 30mm + Filter I set the plate to align the left edge with the stage's left edge. This put the Camera COG on top of the gimbal.</i>
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<b>Expand the Stabilizer Arch</b><br />
To start with you will want the arch expanded to full. To do this turn the knob counter clockwise when you're facing its front. This arch has some flex to it which doesn't appear to affect it much in operation. But in build quality it's not quite a precise as the Blackbird I've had before.
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<!-- 1ft , 30.5 centimeters (less 1.25cm to gimbal pivot, 4cm from gimbal pivot to stage) -->
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At maximum expansion the counterweight's effect is maximized. This affects drop time. Hold that thought, more on that later.
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<b>Attach the weights</b><br />
You want just enough weight to balance the camera. Too little weight and the stage will tilt-up or dive down. Too much weight and the camera will be too bottom heavy making it erratic. You only have three weights. Only the Start and Middle weights are able to attach to the arch. The minimum counter weight is 81g using the Middle Weight. This might be a challenge for very light cameras. In those cases you may want to add weight to the camera using a sliding mount like the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010SIAV2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=primbuteffe-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0010SIAV2">Giottos MH621 Quick Release Adapter with Short Sliding Plate camera mount (paid link).</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=primbuteffe-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B0010SIAV2" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />
<pre>
Counter Weights
Start Weight 335g
Middle Weights 162g (2x 81g)
Finish Weight 78g
Total 577g
</pre>
So how can we find how much weight to use? I start by mounting all the weights then recombining them experimentally. The arch should still be at maximum extension at this point. For the Canon 7D + Sigma 30mm + Filter I took away the Finish weight (Start+Middle = 497g). The camera remained upright with a slight tilt. When I took out even the middle weight the camera totally tilted up (Start = 335g). When I added back the Finish weight (Start+Finish = 413g) it wasn't enough to counter the camera's 1348g. So I settled with the Start+Middle weight as the correct combination for my rig.
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The intention is to have the rig slightly bottom heavy. <i>Taking away weights or adding them back changes the COG of the entire rig. Notice the distinction! Before we were talking about the Camera's COG with respect to the gimbal. Now that you have the camera mounted you are trying to manage the Steadyvid Pro and Camera's overall COG. You want this to be slightly below the gimbal which acts as the fulcrum.</i> Why? It has to do with Physics. Some people smarter than I am could probably work the math out for me. If you would like to take a shot here are some references:
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<a href="http://www.ehow.com/how_7525395_calculate-weight-balance.html">http://www.ehow.com/how_7525395_calculate-weight-balance.html</a><br />
<a href="http://www.school-for-champions.com/science/gravity_center.htm">http://www.school-for-champions.com/science/gravity_center.htm</a><br />
<a href="http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/k-12/WindTunnel/Activities/balance_of_forces.html">http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/k-12/WindTunnel/Activities/balance_of_forces.html</a><br />
<!--Weights
S torque = (30.5 - 1.25)cm * 573g = 29.25cm * 573g = 16760.25 cm*g
vs
Camera
C torque = -(4cm * 1512g) = -(6048 cm*g)
Main Weight + Max Extension = 9652.5 cm*g
Main Weight + Center + Max Extension = 14420.25 cm*g
You want to be slightly bottom heavy.
5:28 ratio
5*1348 = 28*x
(5*1348)/28 = x
240.71 = x
4:29 ratio
4*1348 = 29 * x
(4*1348)/29 = x
185 = x
calculation is a bit off, needed 330g + 163g = 493g ... the camera extends the difference!
-->
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What I took away from this was the see-saw example. The heavier child, the camera in this case, has to be counteracted by the lighter child by varying either weight or distance. Now there could be cases where the camera is too heavy for the rig. <i>My Canon 7D + Sigma 17-50mm 2.8 + Filter + Giottos MH621 could be balanced static but was too sensitive in motion.</i> The Opteka website doesn't sell the weights separately on their catalog. You might have to get creative with washers to get more granularity.
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<b>Use Trim Controls to Adjust Balance</b><br />
Now there is the infuriating part. I would find a sturdy table with empty space underneath. Merlin and WSCALTERs alike can sit on the handle when the camera is fairly close to balanced. With this you can use both hands to practice balancing. Once you get used to it, you should be able to balance it one handed while holding the camera with your dominant hand.
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Keep and eye on the bubble level. If your camera has an electronic level that would be even better. For this exercise we stick to the standard equipment, hence the bubble level. If the bubble is to the right, you need to roll left a bit. Use the knob on the stage's side and twist clockwise to move the bubble left. The bubble might also be slightly back, use the knob on the rear and twist clockwise to move the bubble forward. Alternate between knobs until you get the bubble center. Move the arch out of center then let it fall to confirm it will sit center. Once you have a good balance tighten the silver locking bolts on the sides and bottom of the stage. You are almost there. This is what they call static balance.
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<i>One thing I don't like about the trim knobs is they tend to stick. I have to periodically check the gimbal to see if it's moving. The Blackbird was much smoother and precise. I'm comparing a Kia to an Audi here. Just letting you know.<br /><br />When first learning to make adjustments, you should use whole rotations until the stabilizer leans in the opposite axis. Then dial it back. Over time the number of twists start to become intuitive. If you look inside the stage you will find it is manipulated by long screws. The reason for the stickiness is friction between the locking nut and the stage. This may wear down over time making it easier to move even with the silver locking bolts tightened. For alignment of the gimbal by sight, on the bottom the space between the silver bolts is center. On the side, the silver bolts are fixed to the sliding stage. When the rear silver bolt is close to the rear end of the groove you are at maximum aft.</i>
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Now pick up the handle and lift the rig from the table. It may get a bit squirrely then tilt in some odd direction. Adjust any major tilting with the same technique as you had. Now we need to work on dynamic balance and drop time all at once.
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<b>Adjust Drop time</b><br />
If you move your hand left to right, then front to back you may notice it acting like a boat in rough seas. The rig is too sensitive because it is too bottom heavy. If the weights came in finer increments we could have added or removed more weights. Since we don't have this option we'll have to raise the weights/contract the arch.
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Try pulling the weights to the left so the camera and weights become horizontal. <i>This would be a good time to remember if all your silver locking and plate bolts are tight. You don't want the camera to fall off the stage!</i> Then let go of the weights and count how long it takes for the it to cross vertical. With my rig setup it was less than 1 second. I reckon about .5 seconds it was already dropped. Yes, this is drop time.
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The rule of thumb is you want anywhere from 1 to 2 seconds of drop time. On the Blackbird I liked 1.5 seconds, but when I started I did 2 seconds. For Merlin's they recommend close to 1 second. On the Steadyvid Pro, I'm still at 2 seconds. You'll have to get a feel for it depending on your camera. The end state you want is for the entire camera and arch to move together as a unit. When you stop you don't want it to overly tilt or rotate. If it does rotate as it falls then adjust the camera a bit backward then try again.
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<i>For the Canon 7D + Sigma 30mm + Filter it took about 15 clock-wise twists to get to the point where I was happy.</i> Do a few twists at a time, move the camera around a bit, and observe how steady the head remains. Test the drop time. Then trim the balance. As you contract the arch the rig's COG changes so you have to continually adjust balance.
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<!--Sigma 30mm
Left rear 1/4 hole
Slide plate left edge
Start + Midweight
15 twists back from full extension
-->
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Whew, if you've gotten this far you should be able to walk around a bit with the footage being fairly stable. There may be some effects of inertia where it acts like a boat. Or maybe an unruly helicopter. That could mean more tuning. What it probably means is the need to practice flying the stabilizer. Here's a hint: use both hands!<br /><br />
<a href="http://www.primitivebuteffective.com/2012/06/tips-for-opteka-steadyvid-pro-part-3.html">On to Flying the Steadyvid Pro</a><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-13472295153434146542012-05-22T22:01:00.000-04:002015-07-28T06:51:23.879-04:00Tips for the Opteka Steadyvid Pro - Part 1I have, or rather had, a <a href="http://www.primitivebuteffective.com/2010/06/tips-for-cmr-blackbird.html">CMR Blackbird</a>. No, I didn't sell it. It's on the other side of the planet with the 2nd Unit. I had the complete kit with bag, extra weights and stand. The problem was carrying it on international flights took half my luggage space. Since it had more use where I had taken it, the Blackbird stayed. In the meantime I've been using a Gorillapod SLR as a sort of compact shoulder rig. It's been all over the country as far as Hawaii. But nothing beats a handheld stabilizer for dynamic shots. The Steadicam Merlin 2 was recently announced and I was interested. Only it was quite expensive at $800. Then while browsing through Amazon I happened upon the Opteka SteadyVid Pro. Hey! $179.95. Quite tempting.<br />
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<b>Pro:</b> <br />
Cheap<br />
Compact<br />
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<b>Con: </b><br />
Poor documentation<br />
No markers for consistent setting<br />
Limited weight capacity<br />
Questionable durability<br />
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There are more cons than pros. Did I mention it was cheap? I wouldn't trade my Blackbird in for the Steadyvid Pro. The Blackbird had documentation (manual, video and email support!), graduated markers and 8 lbs of capacity. It was worth the $670 for the complete kit ($470 for just the stabilizer). But what if you can't afford to spend that much for a stabilizer? You could go <a href="http://www.primitivebuteffective.com/search/label/stabilizer">DIY</a>. That's if you have the tools, skills and patience. Okay, I digress. Who would want a Steadyvid Pro anyway?
If you want to dabble, the Steadyvid Pro might be a good introduction. If you want a 2nd stabilizer for infrequent use this might be for you. If you have no patience, you might want to stay away. You need to expend money, time and effort whichever stabilizer you choose. The expensive ones come with support. With the Opteka you get what you paid for. Which is probably why you're reading this. At this price point, you'll be dependent on other users to help you out. Hurray, user community!<br />
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<center>
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/cm?lt1=_blank&bc1=000000&IS2=1&bg1=FFFFFF&fc1=000000&lc1=0000FF&t=primbuteffe-20&o=1&p=8&l=as4&m=amazon&f=ifr&ref=ss_til&asins=B007FDE4Y8" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe>
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<br /><i>Batteries not included, some assembly required, your mileage may vary!</i>
</center><br />
<b>Quick Control Guide and Concepts</b><br />
Before going into detail on how to balance, here is a quick guide to the controls and a hint on the concepts.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieZcZsHYZ0ysRrPVCK7-uci9eYMholsSjesHBokNiv6XflufJMSFkosVrrMpz7HnxvsHIG01lEQW2OArxIOIHQEYfg1t8MbDWGnUeREK9BvSUeW3NTfz755mVeYB9XpNESv0nl3SAIVQ/s1600/Gimbal+Controls.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="320" width="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieZcZsHYZ0ysRrPVCK7-uci9eYMholsSjesHBokNiv6XflufJMSFkosVrrMpz7HnxvsHIG01lEQW2OArxIOIHQEYfg1t8MbDWGnUeREK9BvSUeW3NTfz755mVeYB9XpNESv0nl3SAIVQ/s320/Gimbal+Controls.png" /></a></div>
The bendy-foldy part above the handle is called the <b><i>gimbal</i></b>. Above the gimbal is the camera <b><i>stage</i></b>. Between the stage and camera there is a <b>plate<i></i></b> onto which the camera is screwed on. There are knobs on the side and rear to adjust the gimbal position. In the above picture I've color coded the controls and the direction the stage or gimbal takes. Don't get confused by the opposite markings. <b>The stage movement is opposite to the gimbal position.</b> If the gimbal is moved left of center, the stage (as indicated by the bubble level) will lean right.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxh8GRtlZJAFjGcriWLORbqyhOvaC1rf3EkIIpYBmcEmAFE69-GGjIileFnsBJjBY3Nrdj0wccU7GUBbN5HNyD_jIRMHA60FS7Xny4-D_7HqgJC0Yj6y2Mwifg7Epa2ztI6EgiW9LJoA/s1600/arch+and+Weights.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="220" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxh8GRtlZJAFjGcriWLORbqyhOvaC1rf3EkIIpYBmcEmAFE69-GGjIileFnsBJjBY3Nrdj0wccU7GUBbN5HNyD_jIRMHA60FS7Xny4-D_7HqgJC0Yj6y2Mwifg7Epa2ztI6EgiW9LJoA/s320/arch+and+Weights.jpg" /></a></div>
<center><i>One double-sided sheet is all the instructions that come with the kit. Help!</i></center>
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The stabilizer is a really complicated looking version of a see-saw. If you remember your playground days, a heavy kid near the fulcrum of a see-saw can be lifted by a lighter child sitting further from the fulcrum. If they can find the sweet spot, both children can hang suspended off the ground. That's the state of equilibrium. With a stabilizer, the gimbal is the fulcrum. One short end of the see-saw is from the gimbal to the camera plate. The other longer end is from the gimbal to the weights on the arched shaft.
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<a href="http://www.primitivebuteffective.com/2012/05/tips-for-opteka-steavyvid-pro-part-2.html">On to Balancing</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-91224461024302746232012-05-21T18:59:00.000-04:002012-05-21T19:01:40.705-04:00Lenovo W520 and Photoshop CS6 Scratch DiskJust upgraded to CS6 targeting the mSATA. On start there was an immediate error "Could not open a scratch file because the file is locked." Apparently, there is a bug in CS6 where it insists on using the C: drive, where I no longer have a Users directory. Looking across the net I found some <a href="http://forums.adobe.com/message/4314200">clues</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm4Ypw9gftc2i2os8Y2YyzRNRKcWL-jXKykO1cOIBSZaQpJFecL0NngvBIAwmZlBSeJch0bP52rt4GtDey2BVbuAt8BlHrCBsdjfq6t2NFrZR8K_WETHaJrAaC28R_WqBv8cem9bJ66w/s1600/How+to+Fix+Scratch+Disk+problem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="320" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm4Ypw9gftc2i2os8Y2YyzRNRKcWL-jXKykO1cOIBSZaQpJFecL0NngvBIAwmZlBSeJch0bP52rt4GtDey2BVbuAt8BlHrCBsdjfq6t2NFrZR8K_WETHaJrAaC28R_WqBv8cem9bJ66w/s320/How+to+Fix+Scratch+Disk+problem.jpg" /></a></div>
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After a bit of experimenting, one did work. I held down just CTRL-ALT then went to the Start menu to start Photoshop CS6. A menu appears to specify the Scratch Disk and I point it to D:. The picture above was edited using Photoshop, so it worked!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1644556326641411702.post-35468716812905409472012-04-04T17:41:00.005-04:002012-04-28T20:30:28.796-04:00Lenovo W520 and Photoshop GPU Enhancements DisabledAfter an NVidia update Photoshop CS5 kept complaining "Photoshop has discovered a problem with the display driver and has disabled GPU enhancement." A thread I found suggested to rollback the driver but that was not the correct solution. This other <a href="http://www.digitalmotive.info/archives/1283/photoshop-has-encountered-a-problem-with-the-display-driver-and">site</a> gave me a clue. Optimus was assigned Intel HD graphics rather than the NVIDIA Quadro 2000M (or 1000M if that's what you have) to Photoshop. <b>Auto</b> is <b>not</b> a <b>bad</b> Global setting but not good for your CUDA enabled Adobe applications. You can customize the settings per program to the NVIDIA Control Panel either via Windows Control Panel or the taskbar applet for Optimus.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd3UEW6MgONTojWtAt_GAVwvLk1KCIQoT-doX2y2RfU4QG8sSHr0YHqEYzUau_NNt-Y8AecXAmGQep8J6UieAmQeTW74veHKp5DpTGJbIRcPYSsMpQppdfB2v5IW6Q5vDdUEQlRsbhVA/s1600/NvidiaSettingsSpecificForAdobe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="226" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd3UEW6MgONTojWtAt_GAVwvLk1KCIQoT-doX2y2RfU4QG8sSHr0YHqEYzUau_NNt-Y8AecXAmGQep8J6UieAmQeTW74veHKp5DpTGJbIRcPYSsMpQppdfB2v5IW6Q5vDdUEQlRsbhVA/s320/NvidiaSettingsSpecificForAdobe.jpg" /></a></div><code><br />
Start -> Control Panel -> NVIDIA Control Panel -> 3D Settings -> Program Settings (tab) -> Select A Program To Customize: Add -> Find the exact photoshop.exe path in your Program Files -> Select the preferred graphics processor for this program: High-performance NVIDIA processor -> Apply<br />
</code><br />
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Stop and Restart Photoshop. The error should have gone away. You can confirm you are using the NVIDIA graphics card by going to System Info.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MXpffyVm7sDOlMpNerGadAqAlhXj7IaA-Px4xeK3w0E3SokquYr0h89dkdhmudchX7mS-45Qu4oL8JyiN3CHFOMgd7HRBrb-VM8AqVzSm-SODRzsRs2h3M6N_Tp-muA2SO-o2hBpsw/s1600/PhotoshopSystemInfo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="186" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MXpffyVm7sDOlMpNerGadAqAlhXj7IaA-Px4xeK3w0E3SokquYr0h89dkdhmudchX7mS-45Qu4oL8JyiN3CHFOMgd7HRBrb-VM8AqVzSm-SODRzsRs2h3M6N_Tp-muA2SO-o2hBpsw/s320/PhotoshopSystemInfo.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<code><br />
Help -> System Info -> Scroll down until you find Video Card: NVIDIA Quadro 2000M (or Intel HD Graphics ... which is the cause of your problem)<br />
</code><br />
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<code><br />
Video Card Vendor: Intel<br />
Video Card Renderer: Intel(R) HD Graphics Family<br />
Display: 1<br />
Display Bounds:= top: 0, left: 0, bottom: 1080, right: 1920 <br />
Video Card Number: 1<br />
<b>Video Card: NVIDIA Quadro 2000M </b><br />
Driver Version: 8.17.12.7593<br />
Driver Date: 20110812000000.000000-000<br />
Video Card Driver: nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um<br />
Video Mode: <br />
Video Card Caption: NVIDIA Quadro 2000M <br />
Video Card Memory: -2047 MB<br />
Video Card Number: 1<br />
Video Card: NVIDIA Quadro 2000M <br />
</code><br />
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Update: The above appeared to be a symptom of something wrong with the NVIDIA driver update as well. After fixing Photoshop I discovered that After Effects and Premier would fail to start with Sniffer_GPU.exe running a long time before Windows complains. I went through cycles of rollback and patch uninstall of Windows patches. And then putting them back when it didn't work. The final fix was to uninstall the NVIDIA Graphics Driver and rebooting. The reboot automatically reinstalled the graphics software. Another reboot later and the my favorite Adobe apps were all working again.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com12